Certo Dollina II

  • Type: Dollina II
  • Serial No: 40036
  • Manufactured: between end of 1936 and 1938
  • Manufacturer: Certo 
  • Shutter: Compur-Rapid metal leaf shutter
  • Shutter speeds: T, B, 1, 1/2, 1/5, 1/10, 1/25, 1/50, 1/100, 1/250, 1/500
  • Lens: uncoated Carl Zeiss Jena Tessar 1:2.8 f=5cm
  • Aperture: 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22
  • Lens Serial No: 2276719
  • Lens mount: -
  • Last CLA: 01/2012
This camera is the elder brother of the Super Dollina II. Charming and comfortless as we can expect from this family. Interestingly, it's a bit more handy than the younger brother because the aperture numbers are at least clearly visible in the front plate of the lens. Setting it with that ugly peg under the lens is still challenging, though, because you cannot easily access it from the front cover which opens under the lens. 

Certo Dollina II / Tessar 2.8/50

Certo Dollina II / Tessar 2.8/50

Certo Dollina II / Tessar 2.8/50

The Dollina II is a preWWII rangefinder camera which was manufactured only for almost 2 years, from end of 1936 until 1938 when the Dollina III took its place on the top of the 35mm folder palette of Certo. The previous model Dollina I was a simple viewfinder construction with the focus knob on the top plate. The Dollina II looks like if somebody have fastened a separate split-image rangefinder on top of a Dollina I. And the truth is not so far from it. Have a closer look. It's basically a separate rangefinder unit screwed onto the camera.

Certo Dollina II / Tessar 2.8/50

You can barely see the frame counter window because the rangefinder house partly covers it. This rangefinder was surely not an integrated part of the original camera design: it was added on later.

Certo Dollina II / Tessar 2.8/50

The rangefinder is a simple two mirror split-image device but despite how it looks like, it's actually coupled to the focusing. Focusing and framing is basically the same as with the Super Dollina II: you have to do them through two separate pinholes. Or pinhole tubes - if such a word existed.

The viewfinder is a simple tube but be aware: it is not necessarily precise. Mine is a bit misaligned upwards for example. But let's leave this rangefinder/viewfinder topic for now and discuss that brilliant little Tessar on the front.

Certo Dollina II / Tessar 2.8/50

50mm, f/2.8, as you can expect. It's uncoated so it renders real vintage-looking pictures withfoggy parts and glow around light sources and bright surfaces. The in-focus area is sharp and stern, the background gets a bit creamy. All in all, it takes very pleasant photos. The lens is not color corrected so I didn't try it with color film, just plain old BW.

The shutter is the famous Compur-Rapid with times up to 1/500 sec. which is usually enough for everything. No complaints about it.

Certo Dollina II / Tessar 2.8/50

In theory, the Certo Dollina II meets the requirements of a capable rangefinder: 1/500s shutter speed and a sharp fast lens. It's a rarity  and on top of that, a beautiful camera with metal and glass everywhere. Unfortunately, the misaligned viewfinder, the pinhole-like rangefinder and the spartan, anti-ergonomic operation challenges the enthusiasm of the photographer. But the result speaks for itself: you can take real vintage photos with it in great quality.

Hercules

Warming up

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Tip: the button in front of the camera (below the rangefinder and above the lens) has two functions. It is the frame counter reset lock and the film advance unlock.

Zenit 3m

The Good:

Zenit 3m / Helios 44 (M39)
  • Type: Zenit 3m
  • Serial No: 66115890
  • Manufactured: 1966
  • Manufacturer: KMZ Krasnogorsk
  • Shutter: Focal pane curtain (rubberized silk)
  • Shutter speeds: B, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, 1/500
  • Lens: Helios-44 2/58 alu
  • Aperture: 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16
  • Lens Serial No: 6059879
  • Lens mount: M39
  • Last CLA: 02/2012
  • Condition: like a new, shiny, every function working perfectly

The Bad and the Ugly:

Helios-44
  • Type: Zenit 3m
  • Serial No: 66028191
  • Manufactured: 1966
  • Manufacturer: KMZ Krasnogorsk
  • Shutter: Focal pane curtain (rubberized silk)
  • Shutter speeds: B, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, 1/500
  • Lens: Helios-44 2/58 black
  • Aperture: 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16
  • Lens Serial No: 6013114
  • Lens mount: M39
  • Last CLA: 01/2012
  • Condition: worn-out, shabby, self timer not working, shutter hectic


An SLR from the Soviet Union with M39 thread mount and rubberized silk courtain shutter. Grandchild of the legendary Leica II. Sounds interesting, eh? It is, indeed.

Zenit 3m

Small, heavy, charming, Spartan and indestructible. This is how I can describe it the best. But first of all, let's see its origin.

In 1932, the Soviet Union buys the license of the Leica II(D), the famous 35mm Leitz rangefinder camera. Based on the license, they start the production of the FED rangefinder soon enough, in 1934. Then comes the Second Word War. The Felix Edmundovich Dzerzinshky Labour Commune (the FED factory) has to be evacuated during the advancement of the German troops. The Soviet Union decides to restart the mass-production of the Leica copies in the KMZ factory under the brand FED-Zorki in 1948. Later, the FED factory restarts its operation but the KMZ continues to produce the Leica copies under the Zorki name. From that point, the development of the FEDs and Zorkis go on their own separate ways.

Zenit 3m

After the War, the Soviet Union begins to produce an other German rangefinder camera, the Zeiss Contax, under the Kiev name. No license buying this time; they take the design, the machinery, the parts, materials and even the engineers as war indemnity. But  there is still no Soviet reflex camera; the SLR camera production remains in East Germany.

The large internal market of the Soviet Union needs a cheap and simple SLR camera in mass production. The KMZ factory finds the simplest possible solution: they take a Zorki rangefinder, remove the RF housing and replace it by a plain ground-glass and a prism. They put a mirror below and push forward the M39 Leica thread mount to make room for the mirror housing. This is how the most successful SLR of the Soviet Union is born in 1952.

The early Zorki and Zenit cameras were developed together: the first Zenit model was based on the Zorki 1,  Zenit S was based on the Zorki S (with flash sync).

The Zenit 3 was a separate development from the Zorki line. It had a wind lever and a self timer but the film load mechanism was still the good-old Leica way: you had to remove the bottom of the camera. It had quite high build quality but the production cost was too high so the production was stopped shortly after the introduction of the Zenit 3. The solution for the cost problem was the Zenit 3m. This was the first model with removable back. The letter 'm' meant modern, however the design was outdated from its birth. Just compare it to the German SLR-s of the same age: a Contaflex, a Retina Reflex, an Exakta or a Bessamatic is a high-tech spaceship command center compared to the Zenits.

Zenit 3m / Helios 44 (M39)

Zenit 3m / Helios 44, Jupiter-11, Mir-1  (M39)

Zenit 3m

The Zen art of SLR: the Zenit 3m is small, beautiful and extremely minimalist in functionality. No tricks like instant mirror return, you have to cock the shutter to see trough the lens. No focusing aid of any kind, just the good-old ground glass screen. You have a minimal set of shutter times at your disposal: 500, 250, 125, 60 30 and B. No slow times of course. There is no automated aperture control, just an additional ring on the lens to manually open and close the aperture from wide open to the preset value. Light metering? Come on, you can't be serious.

Zenit 3m

Zenit 3m

The camera is robust and it has an indestructible air and it's so imprecise, so rough, so Russian that it can't be compared to anything, maybe only to a tank. A small, pretty tank.

After this description one can imagine that using a Zenit 3m must be a pain but nothing is more far from the truth. Using a Zenit 3m is a pure joy. You hold a small gem in your hand. You don't have to worry if you accidentally knock it to the wall; this would be the problem of the building's owner. There is no technical wizardry to keep your attention away from composing the image. Interestingly, this minimal SLR turns out to be just the right tool in most of the cases. And it's cheap, damn cheap. So cheap that you can easily buy three to have spare in case. 781.678 pieces were made of it so you can't run out of supply.

And the lenses...

Helios-44, Jupiter-11 and Mir-1 for Zenit 3m

Mir-1

Jupiter-11

You can have an Industar 3.5/50 but don't go for it: it's just a low quality Tessar clone. Buy a camera with the legendary 58mm Helios-44. This lens is a Zeiss Biotar copy, a true pleasure to use. The later type the lens the better the resolution.

And there is the legendary Zeiss Flektogon clone, the award-winning 37mm MIR-1 which won the Grand Prix in Brussels in 1958. Sharp like hell. It renders crisp pictures, no matter what.

Last but not least you can have a 135mm Jupiter-11, which was based on the reputable Zeiss Sonnar. Unfortunately, my example has quite bad optical quality but other resources praise it so it's possibly my bad luck.

Don't let the M39 thread mount fool you. The rangefinder lenses from the FEDs and Zorkis (or even  Leica's) can be mounted on the Zenit 3m but they will not be fully functional. The base distance of the Zenit is much larger because of the mirror housing so the RF lenses can be used solely for close shots; you cannot focus them to greater distances.

The Zenit 3m is even able to take quite stunning macro shots. We did a thorough investigation in this matter. You can find the results and the lessons learned at the KIWI project webpage: kiwiproject.tumblr.com

And now let's see those test shots.

The Helios-44 is a good lens. No surprise because it's a Zeiss Biotar copy.

Racing

Thanks for the tea

Reverse macro with exposure compensation


The MIR-1 is basically a Flektogon. And it performs accordingly.

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Freelensing with MIR-1


The Jupiter 11 gets unsharp at the edges at maximum aperture:

Jupiter 11 at f/4

Nowadays, you have to buy a Lensbaby lens for similar effect. Having a Zenit 3m with the Jupiter 11, you just have to set the aperture to f/4.

But it is sharp at the center when stopped down:

Racing scooter

Tip: never ever set shutter speed before cocking the shutter! It can permanently damage the shutter. Remember: it's an old Zorki inside.