tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-16955040030144913612024-03-21T16:32:58.637+01:00The Camera Collectioneverything from Altix to Zorki - vintage camera reviews with sample photosLhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10110818230262341583noreply@blogger.comBlogger18125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1695504003014491361.post-90113486960684886342013-12-01T15:19:00.000+01:002013-12-02T22:29:07.965+01:00Ricoh 500 G<br />
<ul>
<li>Type: Ricoh 500 G</li>
<li>Serial No: 05 696143</li>
<li>Manufactured: from the early 70's</li>
<li>Manufacturer: Ricoh</li>
<li>Format: 135</li>
<li>Shutter: two bladed metal leaf shutter</li>
<li>Shutter speeds: B, 8, 15, 30, 60, 125, 250, 500</li>
<li>Lens: Rikenon f=40mm 1:2.8 </li>
<li>Aperture: 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16</li>
<li>Lens Serial No: -</li>
<li>Lens mount: - </li>
<li>Last CLA: 2012</li>
<li>Condition: light meter is not functioning</li>
</ul>
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/10933724663" title="Ricoh 500 G by Laszlo Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Ricoh 500 G" height="375" src="//farm8.staticflickr.com/7378/10933724663_1d0d3bbe2c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
Falling in love with compact Japanese rangefinders form the 70's is easy. They usually are seriously good looking, have unique character, convincing feature list and some kind of professional air. The Ricoh 500 G is no exception. It was intended to be a cheap alternative of the higher quality rangefinders of the compact class. The lower price was achieved by using cheaper materials and leaving out the flashmatic function so the photographer had to calculate the right aperture setting for the given flash key number using a simple formula. But still, the little 500 G was a very capable little camera.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/10933458785" title="Ricoh 500 G and Olympus 35 RC by Laszlo Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Ricoh 500 G and Olympus 35 RC" height="375" src="//farm6.staticflickr.com/5506/10933458785_e2f32bd7a3.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
Compared to the beloved Olympus 35 RC, the Ricoh has almost the same size. Its body is thicker than the Oly's but the film winding lever is at the top so it doesn't extend behind the camera. Their overall thickness would be about the same if the Olympus did not use an indented filter thread. The winner here is the Oly with a few millimeters.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/10933586374" title="Ricoh 500 G and Olympus 35 RC by Laszlo Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Ricoh 500 G and Olympus 35 RC" height="375" src="//farm6.staticflickr.com/5479/10933586374_c4f9bf067d.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
The first thing you realize when you take the 500 G in your hand after putting down the 35 RC is that the Ricoh camera is made of aluminium. The cheaper metal has its disadvantages though: the camera easily gets scratched or dented and the back of the camera deformed. The latter results in imperfect closure which leads to light leaking. The 35 RC is more resistant to physical impacts.<br />
<br />
Another problem with the little Ricoh is the light sealing. By design, the whole back plate has to be covered with it which makes it prone to light leaking by design. And get prepared: the original sealing was not meant to be long lasting so it became a dark sticky mess for now. Replacing it a real pain. It's like a mix of half-dried glue and used engine oil. And you have to completely remove it before put on the new one. No light sealing kit available so you have to carefully select the thickness of the replacement material and do some handwork with the scissors.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/10933429525" title="Ricoh 500 G by Laszlo Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Ricoh 500 G" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7401/10933429525_bff40db2f3.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
Apart from the flashmatic mode the two cameras have almost identical technical parameters.<br />
The Ricoh 500 G outperforms the Olympus 35 RC in terms of slow shutter speeds: it has 1/8 while the Oly's slowest speed is 1/15. But the Oly can stop down the aperture to 22 while the Ricoh's smallest hole is marked with 16. The rest is more or less the same: 2 metal blade shutter, 1 m closest focusing distance, etc.<br />
<br />
I can't say anything about light metering and automatic mode because the circuitry in my camera is broken. Not a problem for me because I usually trust the light metering to my mobile phone.<br />
<br />
And now the aperture of the Ricoh 500 G:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/10933581654" title="Ricoh 500 G by Laszlo Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Ricoh 500 G" height="375" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3770/10933581654_e0b285dfff.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
This is something the Olympus 35 RC should envy: an almost round 4 blade aperture. Do you remember its 2 bladed shame? No? Here it is, the Olympus 35 RC aperture:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8757365647" title="2 blade diaphragm by Laszlo Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="2 blade diaphragm" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7459/8757365647_5dc2003f8d.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
Now let's see the handling. You have to set aperture, speed and focus with rings on the lens. One could think that The 35 RC's setup is eaiser to handle with the speed setting dial on the top but no. The rings of the 500 G are ergonomically designed and just stiff enough to let the photographer turn just one of them at a time. Definitely more handy than the Olympus setup where it's virtually impossible to set aperture without changing focus. However, a small Japanese hand comes handy to set the aperture on both.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/10933576914" title="Ricoh 500 G and Olympus 35 RC by Laszlo Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Ricoh 500 G and Olympus 35 RC" height="375" src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2815/10933576914_a46ff9b0f7.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/10933432955" title="Ricoh 500 G by Laszlo Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Ricoh 500 G" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7331/10933432955_0cd96434b3.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
In theory, focusing is more precise on the Ricoh due to the longer rotation of the focusing ring. I had no focusing problem with the Oly, though. Rangefinder base distance is the same.<br />
<br />
The viewfinder has parallax marks on both cameras but the 500 G doesn't show the speed setting - only the aperture.<br />
<br />
The overall feel of the camera is cheapo due mostly to the aluminium and plastic used and the sounds the camera makes. The Olympus 35 RC gives you a more pro feeling.<br />
<br />
Now let's see the image quality. There are not too many photographers who still use this camera but the general opinion is that the little Rikenon lens is a good performer. I expected beautiful bokeh due to the rounded aperture. (The Olympus 35 RC disappointed me from this prospective.) Well, let's see what it looks like:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/10842915793" title="Untitled by Laszlo Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="333" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3729/10842915793_67d86ef209.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
It can be said that the out of focus area is not the strength of the Ricoh 500 G. Nor the wide aperture:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/11151534424" title="No contrast if aperture is wide by Laszlo Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="No contrast if aperture is wide" height="333" src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2890/11151534424_a9582b2e06.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
Those usually saturated colors get washed-out and that crisp contrast simply disappears when one opens the diaphragm wider. But at leas no vignetting - which can be disturbing stopped down to f/16:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/11151503436" title="Strong vignetting on f/16 by Laszlo Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Strong vignetting on f/16" height="333" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5540/11151503436_f86d73cb44.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
Is this camera that bad? No. If you keep aperture on f/11 you can have nicely saturated and contrasty images like these below. Just don't forget to put everything in focus.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/10842906863" title="Untitled by Laszlo Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="333" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3692/10842906863_7f7d03512d.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/10842568075" title="Untitled by Laszlo Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="333" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3825/10842568075_6c8f6023c4.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/10842560175" title="Untitled by Laszlo Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="388" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3697/10842560175_9bf07de5bf.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
It is not impossible to take good photos with the Ricoh 500 G but if you are looking for a versatile little rangefinder then the Olympus 35 RC is definitely a better choice.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10110818230262341583noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1695504003014491361.post-85838051459811526242013-05-20T22:46:00.000+02:002013-12-02T22:18:44.969+01:00Olympus 35RC<ul>
<li>Type: 35RC</li>
<li>Serial No: 185489</li>
<li>Manufactured: 1970-1979</li>
<li>Manufacturer: Olympus</li>
<li>Format: 135</li>
<li>Shutter: Olympus metal leaf shutter</li>
<li>Shutter speeds: B, 15, 30, 60, 125, 250, 500</li>
<li>Lens: E.Zuiko 1:2,8 f=42mm</li>
<li>Aperture: 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22</li>
<li>Lens Serial No: -</li>
<li>Lens mount: - </li>
<li>Last CLA: 2012</li>
</ul>
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8758487110/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7303/8758487110_d1bb84a042.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
Which is the World's smallest 35mm manual rangefinder camera? One could think of the Rollei 35 or the Minox 35 as the smallest 35mm camera, but none of them has a rangefinder, unfortunately. Or the Olympus XA which has rangefinder but lacks manual mode. The thing is that there is a camera which is almost as small as the above mentioned three but it has a rangefinder, light meter, shutter priority mode with exposure lock, full manual mode, flashmatic mode, self timer, a sharp 5-element lens - basically everything an enthusiast photographer needs and even more. Surprisingly, this camera is not highly regarded, even barely noted by the Camerapedia. And it's damn cheap on ebay.<br />
<br />
It is the Olympus 35RC. The ultimate compact rangefinder from the '70s.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8758496214/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8395/8758496214_830c8c88cd.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
The Olympus 35RC is small. In fact, smaller than the half-frame cameras. A Fujica Half looks like a giant compared to it - and again, the Fujica has not even a rangefinder.<br />
<br />
The shutter speed range is just right: 15-500 and B. No long times but come on, can you remember when you used 1/2 last time? The shutter is a two blade mechanical metal leaf type. Setting the right speed is easy with the top dial which can be turned in any direction.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8758494404/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="375" src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2865/8758494404_80dd2559e9.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8758487900/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="375" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5445/8758487900_4da1f480af.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
The aperture ring is a different story. It's so thin that there is a fair chance that you will move the focus ring with it when you set the aperture. There are three special positions on it: OFF, A and the lightning symbol.<br />
<br />
The OFF switches off the light meter and prevents the shutter from firing. Logical.<br />
<br />
The A sets the camera into automatic shutter priority mode. You set the speed, the light meter sets the aperture. Exposure lock can be activated with halfway pressing the shutter release. This way you can read the aperture set by the light meter as well. (It is shown in the viewfinder.) If no appropriate aperture exists for the given light and shutter speed, the camera won't fire. It's fool proof.<br />
<br />
The lightning symbol sets the so called Flashmatic mode: you set the speed and the flash guide number and the camera sets the right aperture based on the focusing distance.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8757364633/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="375" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3828/8757364633_c8d6a7e52a.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
The viewfinder is informative. You can see the selected speed on the top and the aperture on the bottom of the frame. There are bright parallax correction marks. The rangefinder spot is not too contrasty but usable. The rangefinder itself is precise. The small base distance is perfectly enough for the 42 mm Zuiko lens to be set on focus.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8758492784/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="375" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3801/8758492784_6ce1353260.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
Loading the film is as easy as it is possible with a mechanical camera. It's self explanatory as the most of the features of the little 35RC. (Not like the Pentacon Six which needs me to watch the video tutorial bookmarked in my smartphone every time before I load a roll of film into it.)<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8758493756/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="375" src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2830/8758493756_b7b1f7a295.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8758489264/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="375" src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2885/8758489264_31801a4b83.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
The overal feel of this camera is a bit controversial. It's relatively heavy for its size and this implies some serious engineering inside. The way the aperture ring and the shutter speed dial works just validates this. But the plastic focus ring and the shutter release wobbles giving an imprecise, if not toy-camera feeling to the whole.<br />
<br />
And the sharp and fast 5 elements Zuiko lens has a two-blade aperture. Can you believe this?<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8757365647/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7459/8757365647_5dc2003f8d.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8758492026/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="375" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3759/8758492026_1ea902b563.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
The Olympus 35RC is an easy-to-use handy little camera. Good action shooter with<br />
no-hassle features and the simplest possible control set. The lens is sharp and capable. The closest focusing distance is around 0.8 - 0.9 m which is an acceptable compromise regarding the camera size. The only thing I don't really like is the bokeh. This 2 blade diaphragm makes it mediocre. It has a 70's feeling, however.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8668759549/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8396/8668759549_b485d87f56.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8668758635/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8398/8668758635_e10cf4da68.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8668766233/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8397/8668766233_6ffe1762a5.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8669866154/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8405/8669866154_240a3fae15.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8669865002/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8391/8669865002_abd99ebc86.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8668780117/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8389/8668780117_ef9c0553cb.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8729214584/" title="Sundial of the church's tower. by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Sundial of the church's tower." height="500" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7285/8729214584_13e7a9289e.jpg" width="333" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8728094069/" title="Shot from the 60's by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Shot from the 60's" height="333" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7351/8728094069_bac4f38a6e.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8729213934/" title="Honda 750 Four by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Honda 750 Four" height="333" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7296/8729213934_feecbcb442.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8723524153/" title="Dürnstein by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Dürnstein" height="333" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7446/8723524153_f5df50b352.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8731963181/" title="The Authentic by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="The Authentic" height="333" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7286/8731963181_caf3116ea5.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8741421775/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="333" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7286/8741421775_ffd34e90a4.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B0ZdqQ4OdRW5ZFRuVDR2bnh3ZXM/edit?usp=sharing" target="_blank">Olympus 35RC manual</a></li>
<li><a href="http://kenrockwell.com/olympus/35rc.htm" target="_blank">Thorough review by Ken Rockwell</a></li>
</ul>
Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10110818230262341583noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1695504003014491361.post-85008792275789963842013-02-18T23:33:00.001+01:002013-05-26T12:15:14.916+02:00Hapo 66-E<ul>
<li>Type: Hapo 66E (Mess Baldix)</li>
<li>Serial No: I couldn't find any</li>
<li>Manufactured: 1955-1961(?)</li>
<li>Manufacturer: Balda Kamera-Werk - Max Baldeweg Bünde</li>
<li>Format: 120 6x6</li>
<li>Shutter: Pronto metal leaf shutter</li>
<li>Shutter speeds: B, 25, 50, 100, 200</li>
<li>Lens: Enna Haponar 1:4.5/7.5 C</li>
<li>Aperture: 4.5, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22</li>
<li>Lens Serial No: 239251</li>
<li>Lens mount: - </li>
<li>Last CLA: 01/2012</li>
</ul>
<br />
I bought this neat 6x6 folder at the Mostra Scambio Imola in 2011. A German camera from an Italian oldtimer fair. It looks serious: rangefinder integrated into the viewfinder, auto-erect mechanism, self timer, shutter lock, frame counter, flash synch, what else do you need from a 6x6 folder?<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8485580617/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8521/8485580617_2241efe7a3.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
The Hapo 66-E is a rebranded Mess Baldix. It was manufactured by the West German Balda Kamera-Werk and sold by Photo-Porst.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8485584877/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8531/8485584877_f97c185fd3.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8485584291/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8525/8485584291_1d55c5266a.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8485582357/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8505/8485582357_2f461c0af5.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8486673470/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8110/8486673470_d5d47026fb.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
The coated lens seems to be rebranded as well: it's most probably an Ennagon from Enna Werk München (size, construction and comparative shots make it obvious but no written proof found so far).<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8486668288/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8381/8486668288_39d389f47a.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8486667388/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8087/8486667388_3e2cfee322.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
The shutter is an inexpensive pronto with very limited speed range from 1/25 to 1/200 and B. Film sensitivity has to be carefully matched to the light conditions. But you have a self timer lever marked with a red dot. Looks really cool.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8486669284/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8092/8486669284_28485f89a8.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
The rangefinder is uncoupled: you have to read the measured distance from the scale of the RF knob on the top of the camera and set the same distance on the focus ring of the lens. It seems to be a complicated and unreliable process but in fact the focus is dead on even in close distances. It just needs some time to be set.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7875945110/" title="Monte Baldo by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Monte Baldo" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8441/7875945110_86392ccc76.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
An interesting feature of the Hapo 66-E is the most complicated double exposure prevention mechanism of the known Universe. To be able to understand how it works, we have to know the film winding mechanism first.<br />
<br />
After loading the 120 film you have to go to frame 1. To do this you have to turn the film wind knob counterclockwise until it stops then turn it clockwise until it stops and repeat it until you see the number 1 in the red window on the back of the camera. Be careful, this ratcheting wind is not aligned with the frame width so you have to stop somewhere in the middle of the turn, most probably.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8486670186/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8232/8486670186_ddf3c93d84.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
Now we have to set the frame counter to 1.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8485583371/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8369/8485583371_5e50fffc96.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
There is a little switch on the camera back between the viewfinder and the film wind knob. Push and hold it to the right. At the same time turn the film wind knob counterclockwise until it sets the frame counter back to 1.<br />
<br />
And now let's see the double exposure lock. There is a little dot behind the shutter release button. It's white when the camera is ready to take a shot. It turns to red if the double exposure lock is activated by firing the shutter. The lock is deactivated by the racheting film wind mechanism when you turn the wind knob counterclockwise until it stops and turn it clockwise. It makes the little dot white again. Forget this and your shutter won't fire.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8486665412/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8392/8486665412_8d454a354b.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
My overall impression of the camera is that it is solid and reliable, something that I could take with me for a motorcycle ride or for hiking without being afraid of breaking it and knowing that it worked for sure. The only real drawback of the Hapo 66E is the image quality it offers.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8485574193/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8516/8485574193_31d97e9369.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
There are at least two versions of this camera: one with 3.5/75 Haponar lens and one with 4.5/75. The latter have inferior image quality: sharp at the center but blurry and distorted towards the edges. Vignetting is also noticeable. Even the better 3.5/75 shows signs of distortion and blurriness on the corners. Not a high quality Zeiss glass but the performance is acceptable at its price level.<br />
<i><br /></i>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<i>(Please read the rest of this post because there is important information about image quality there.)</i></div>
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8482425686/" title="Lake Garda by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Lake Garda" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8510/8482425686_e55e0d0765.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7875946900/" title="Limone sul Garda by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Limone sul Garda" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8306/7875946900_2ec79361b6.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7875948334/" title="Limone sul Garda by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Limone sul Garda" height="500" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7116/7875948334_05739641a7.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8170518013/" title="Expired Velvia by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Expired Velvia" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8477/8170518013_2b51eebc77.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7847213188/" title="Limone sul Garda - Lemon house by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Limone sul Garda - Lemon house" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8287/7847213188_3474253c0c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7847211378/" title="Lake Garda by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Lake Garda" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8431/7847211378_de3685a0b8.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7847208882/" title="Limone by night by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Limone by night" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8304/7847208882_98a8d16138.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8700117754/" title="Horses by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Horses" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8553/8700117754_44788d244b.jpg" width="499" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<h3>
Important update: The TMX Treatment</h3>
<br />
Did I say medium image quality? Well I took this camera with me to the Seiberer Bergpreis in Weissenkirchen, Austria and took some shots on a roll of Kodak Tmax 100 expired long-long time ago (in 1992 to be precise). And this is what I got:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8709903106/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8277/8709903106_c4430ecb8c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8709902614/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8277/8709902614_d9b43e6ba5.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8709901936/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8123/8709901936_a58c8e9e8e.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8708779039/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8263/8708779039_67b93e2889.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8708778733/" title="One P.M. by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="One P.M." height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8550/8708778733_323d808ab9.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8708778217/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8278/8708778217_fb8acbd4fa.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
I couldn't find the words when I first saw these images. Incredibly sharp, full of detail with perfect tonality. This is what the old Hapo 66-E made on the expired TMX. I was completely amazed. I couldn't believe that this was the same camera which took the color shots before. I have no explanation just a theory: the lens may not be color corrected, that is why it wasn't able to render perfect images on color film. All in all, I must give the Hapo 66-E a very good mark when it comes to image quality in BW.<br />
<br />
The camera turned out to be a good action shooter as well. Setting it was easy and film winding and shutter cocking became a second nature after a few shots. To be honest, I truly enjoyed every second of the usage of this old folder.<br />
<br />
And again, the focus was dead on. This uncoupled rangefinder far exceeded my expectations.<br />
<br />
Excellent BW image quality, reliability, charm and pleasure. What else to expect from a classic camera?<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8707901942/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="500" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8275/8707901942_7f234feae4.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.butkus.org/chinon/balda/baldix_6x6/baldix_6x6.htm">User manual on Butkus.org</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.thecamerasite.net/03_Folder_Cameras/Pages/baldina.htm">Hapo 66-E on thecamerasite.net</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.kamera-geschichte.de/files/hapo66e_d.htm">kamera-geschichte.de (in German)</a></li>
<li><a href="http://photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00BL5l">photo.net forum discussion on the manufacturing date</a></li>
<li><a href="http://camerapedia.wikia.com/wiki/Baldix">Camerapedia - Mess Baldix/Hapo 66-E</a></li>
</ul>
Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10110818230262341583noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1695504003014491361.post-24975895662999064032013-01-27T18:48:00.003+01:002013-01-27T18:52:46.238+01:00Certo Dollina II<ul>
<li>Type: Dollina II</li>
<li>Serial No: 40036</li>
<li>Manufactured: between end of 1936 and 1938</li>
<li>Manufacturer: Certo </li>
<li>Shutter: Compur-Rapid metal leaf shutter</li>
<li>Shutter speeds: T, B, 1, 1/2, 1/5, 1/10, 1/25, 1/50, 1/100, 1/250, 1/500</li>
<li>Lens: uncoated Carl Zeiss Jena Tessar 1:2.8 f=5cm</li>
<li>Aperture: 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22</li>
<li>Lens Serial No: 2276719</li>
<li>Lens mount: -</li>
<li>Last CLA: 01/2012</li>
</ul>
<div>
This camera is the elder brother of <a href="http://thecameracollection.blogspot.hu/2010/10/certo-super-dollina-ii.html" target="_blank">the Super Dollina II</a>. Charming and comfortless as we can expect from this family. Interestingly, it's a bit more handy than the younger brother because the aperture numbers are at least clearly visible in the front plate of the lens. Setting it with that ugly peg under the lens is still challenging, though, because you cannot easily access it from the front cover which opens under the lens. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7427896516/" title="Certo Dollina II / Tessar 2.8/50 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Certo Dollina II / Tessar 2.8/50" height="333" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7139/7427896516_56bf4f56b4.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7427895310/" title="Certo Dollina II / Tessar 2.8/50 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Certo Dollina II / Tessar 2.8/50" height="333" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7255/7427895310_bf0ca5866a.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7427893976/" title="Certo Dollina II / Tessar 2.8/50 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Certo Dollina II / Tessar 2.8/50" height="333" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7110/7427893976_010b224c1d.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
The Dollina II is a preWWII rangefinder camera which was manufactured only for almost 2 years, from end of 1936 until 1938 when the Dollina III took its place on the top of the 35mm folder palette of Certo. The previous model Dollina I was a simple viewfinder construction with the focus knob on the top plate. The Dollina II looks like if somebody have fastened a separate split-image rangefinder on top of a Dollina I. And the truth is not so far from it. Have a closer look. It's basically a separate rangefinder unit screwed onto the camera.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7427887570/" title="Certo Dollina II / Tessar 2.8/50 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Certo Dollina II / Tessar 2.8/50" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8156/7427887570_cf1c7f2a3b.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
You can barely see the frame counter window because the rangefinder house partly covers it. This rangefinder was surely not an integrated part of the original camera design: it was added on later.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7427884750/" title="Certo Dollina II / Tessar 2.8/50 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Certo Dollina II / Tessar 2.8/50" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8160/7427884750_e82bf3efbd.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
The rangefinder is a simple two mirror split-image device but despite how it looks like, it's actually coupled to the focusing. Focusing and framing is basically the same as with the Super Dollina II: you have to do them through two separate pinholes. Or pinhole tubes - if such a word existed.<br />
<br />
The viewfinder is a simple tube but be aware: it is not necessarily precise. Mine is a bit misaligned upwards for example. But let's leave this rangefinder/viewfinder topic for now and discuss that brilliant little Tessar on the front.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7427890604/" title="Certo Dollina II / Tessar 2.8/50 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Certo Dollina II / Tessar 2.8/50" height="333" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7107/7427890604_9493e42846.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
50mm, f/2.8, as you can expect. It's uncoated so it renders real vintage-looking pictures withfoggy parts and glow around light sources and bright surfaces. The in-focus area is sharp and stern, the background gets a bit creamy. All in all, it takes very pleasant photos. The lens is not color corrected so I didn't try it with color film, just plain old BW.<br />
<br />
The shutter is the famous Compur-Rapid with times up to 1/500 sec. which is usually enough for everything. No complaints about it.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7427885930/" title="Certo Dollina II / Tessar 2.8/50 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Certo Dollina II / Tessar 2.8/50" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8003/7427885930_c35f570592.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
In theory, the Certo Dollina II meets the requirements of a capable rangefinder: 1/500s shutter speed and a sharp fast lens. It's a rarity and on top of that, a beautiful camera with metal and glass everywhere. Unfortunately, the misaligned viewfinder, the pinhole-like rangefinder and the spartan, anti-ergonomic operation challenges the enthusiasm of the photographer. But the result speaks for itself: you can take real vintage photos with it in great quality.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7236706070/" title="Hercules by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Hercules" height="500" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7090/7236706070_b6dce62887.jpg" width="333" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7236724632/" title="Warming up by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Warming up" height="333" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5444/7236724632_bcd360a612.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7274730534/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="375" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8025/7274730534_a23862e14e.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7278755622/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8025/7278755622_87323c24b6.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7278751874/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="333" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7239/7278751874_b37c56d699.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
Tip: <i>the button in front of the camera (below the rangefinder and above the lens) has two functions. It is the frame counter reset lock and the film advance unlock.</i><br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://camerapedia.wikia.com/wiki/Dollina" target="_blank">Certo Dollina family on Camerapedia</a></li>
<li><a href="http://camera-wiki.org/wiki/Dollina" target="_blank">Same on Camera-wiki</a></li>
</ul>
Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10110818230262341583noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1695504003014491361.post-22990711617881335022013-01-21T00:50:00.000+01:002013-06-02T21:23:45.132+02:00Zenit 3m<h3>
The Good:</h3>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7054887243/" title="Zenit 3m / Helios 44 (M39) by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Zenit 3m / Helios 44 (M39)" height="333" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5340/7054887243_816b8516fd.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<ul>
<li>Type: Zenit 3m</li>
<li>Serial No: 66115890</li>
<li>Manufactured: 1966</li>
<li>Manufacturer: KMZ Krasnogorsk</li>
<li>Shutter: Focal pane curtain (rubberized silk)</li>
<li>Shutter speeds: B, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, 1/500</li>
<li>Lens: Helios-44 2/58 alu</li>
<li>Aperture: 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16</li>
<li>Lens Serial No: 6059879</li>
<li>Lens mount: M39</li>
<li>Last CLA: 02/2012</li>
<li>Condition: like a new, shiny, every function working perfectly</li>
</ul>
<br />
<h3>
The Bad and the Ugly:</h3>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7523185538/" title="Helios-44 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Helios-44" height="333" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7112/7523185538_887452f12f.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<ul>
<li>Type: Zenit 3m</li>
<li>Serial No: 66028191</li>
<li>Manufactured: 1966</li>
<li>Manufacturer: KMZ Krasnogorsk</li>
<li>Shutter: Focal pane curtain (rubberized silk)</li>
<li>Shutter speeds: B, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, 1/500</li>
<li>Lens: Helios-44 2/58 black</li>
<li>Aperture: 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16</li>
<li>Lens Serial No: 6013114</li>
<li>Lens mount: M39</li>
<li>Last CLA: 01/2012</li>
<li>Condition: worn-out, shabby, self timer not working, shutter hectic</li>
</ul>
<br />
<br />
An SLR from the Soviet Union with M39 thread mount and rubberized silk courtain shutter. Grandchild of the legendary Leica II. Sounds interesting, eh? It is, indeed.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7522971516/" title="Zenit 3m by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Zenit 3m" height="333" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7134/7522971516_c730fe4aae.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
Small, heavy, charming, Spartan and indestructible. This is how I can describe it the best. But first of all, let's see its origin.<br />
<br />
In 1932, the Soviet Union buys the license of the Leica II(D), the famous 35mm Leitz rangefinder camera. Based on the license, they start the production of the <a href="http://thecameracollection.blogspot.hu/search/label/FED" target="_blank">FED</a> rangefinder soon enough, in 1934. Then comes the Second Word War. The Felix Edmundovich Dzerzinshky Labour Commune (the FED factory) has to be evacuated during the advancement of the German troops. The Soviet Union decides to restart the mass-production of the Leica copies in the KMZ factory under the brand FED-Zorki in 1948. Later, the FED factory restarts its operation but the KMZ continues to produce the Leica copies under the Zorki name. From that point, the development of the FEDs and Zorkis go on their own separate ways.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7520748124/" title="Zenit 3m by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Zenit 3m" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8157/7520748124_fd7723029f.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
After the War, the Soviet Union begins to produce an other German rangefinder camera, the Zeiss Contax, under the <a href="http://thecameracollection.blogspot.hu/search/label/Kiev" target="_blank">Kiev</a> name. No license buying this time; they take the design, the machinery, the parts, materials and even the engineers as war indemnity. But there is still no Soviet reflex camera; the SLR camera production remains in East Germany.<br />
<br />
The large internal market of the Soviet Union needs a cheap and simple SLR camera in mass production. The KMZ factory finds the simplest possible solution: they take a Zorki rangefinder, remove the RF housing and replace it by a plain ground-glass and a prism. They put a mirror below and push forward the M39 Leica thread mount to make room for the mirror housing. This is how the most successful SLR of the Soviet Union is born in 1952.<br />
<br />
The early Zorki and Zenit cameras were developed together: the first Zenit model was based on the Zorki 1, Zenit S was based on the Zorki S (with flash sync).<br />
<br />
The Zenit 3 was a separate development from the Zorki line. It had a wind lever and a self timer but the film load mechanism was still the good-old Leica way: you had to remove the bottom of the camera. It had quite high build quality but the production cost was too high so the production was stopped shortly after the introduction of the Zenit 3. The solution for the cost problem was the Zenit 3m. This was the first model with removable back. The letter 'm' meant modern, however the design was outdated from its birth. Just compare it to the German SLR-s of the same age: a Contaflex, a Retina Reflex, an Exakta or a Bessamatic is a high-tech spaceship command center compared to the Zenits.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/6908787840/" title="Zenit 3m / Helios 44 (M39) by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Zenit 3m / Helios 44 (M39)" height="333" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7180/6908787840_ac7fe4175f.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7054868831/" title="Zenit 3m / Helios 44, Jupiter-11, Mir-1 (M39) by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Zenit 3m / Helios 44, Jupiter-11, Mir-1 (M39)" height="333" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7057/7054868831_8cc1ff0c40.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7523196136/" title="Zenit 3m by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Zenit 3m" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8429/7523196136_dd811f46ec.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
The Zen art of SLR: the Zenit 3m is small, beautiful and extremely minimalist in functionality. No tricks like instant mirror return, you have to cock the shutter to see trough the lens. No focusing aid of any kind, just the good-old ground glass screen. You have a minimal set of shutter times at your disposal: 500, 250, 125, 60 30 and B. No slow times of course. There is no automated aperture control, just an additional ring on the lens to manually open and close the aperture from wide open to the preset value. Light metering? Come on, you can't be serious.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7523198828/" title="Zenit 3m by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Zenit 3m" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8289/7523198828_a38f79637e.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7523194970/" title="Zenit 3m by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Zenit 3m" height="333" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7273/7523194970_2ac32d99a2.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
The camera is robust and it has an indestructible air and it's so imprecise, so rough, so Russian that it can't be compared to anything, maybe only to a tank. A small, pretty tank.<br />
<br />
After this description one can imagine that using a Zenit 3m must be a pain but nothing is more far from the truth. Using a Zenit 3m is a pure joy. You hold a small gem in your hand. You don't have to worry if you accidentally knock it to the wall; this would be the problem of the building's owner. There is no technical wizardry to keep your attention away from composing the image. Interestingly, this minimal SLR turns out to be just the right tool in most of the cases. And it's cheap, damn cheap. So cheap that you can easily buy three to have spare in case. 781.678 pieces were made of it so you can't run out of supply.<br />
<br />
And the lenses...
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7523191950/" title="Helios-44, Jupiter-11 and Mir-1 for Zenit 3m by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Helios-44, Jupiter-11 and Mir-1 for Zenit 3m" height="333" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7253/7523191950_81ec426d02.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7523190680/" title="Mir-1 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Mir-1" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8017/7523190680_22502f0ab3.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7523186764/" title="Jupiter-11 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Jupiter-11" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8023/7523186764_bd08ce9e8d.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
You can have an Industar 3.5/50 but don't go for it: it's just a low quality Tessar clone. Buy a camera with the legendary 58mm Helios-44. This lens is a Zeiss Biotar copy, a true pleasure to use. The later type the lens the better the resolution.<br />
<br />
And there is the legendary Zeiss Flektogon clone, the award-winning 37mm MIR-1 which won the Grand Prix in Brussels in 1958. Sharp like hell. It renders crisp pictures, no matter what.<br />
<br />
Last but not least you can have a 135mm Jupiter-11, which was based on the reputable Zeiss Sonnar. Unfortunately, my example has quite bad optical quality but other resources praise it so it's possibly my bad luck.<br />
<br />
Don't let the M39 thread mount fool you. The rangefinder lenses from the FEDs and Zorkis (or even Leica's) can be mounted on the Zenit 3m but they will not be fully functional. The base distance of the Zenit is much larger because of the mirror housing so the RF lenses can be used solely for close shots; you cannot focus them to greater distances.<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
The Zenit 3m is even able to take quite stunning macro shots. We did a thorough investigation in this matter. You can find the results and the lessons learned at the KIWI project webpage: <a href="http://kiwiproject.tumblr.com/">kiwiproject.tumblr.com</a><br />
<br />
And now let's see those test shots.<br />
<br />
The Helios-44 is a good lens. No surprise because it's a Zeiss Biotar copy.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8040878594/" title="Racing by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Racing" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8169/8040878594_fe2b6f319c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8142833377/" title="Thanks for the tea by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Thanks for the tea" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8183/8142833377_9f184ebb10.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8395960132/" title="Reverse macro with exposure compensation by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Reverse macro with exposure compensation" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8211/8395960132_53952c7087.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<br />
The MIR-1 is basically a Flektogon. And it performs accordingly.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/6824435762/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="333" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7067/6824435762_b967652790.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/6970554347/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="500" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7037/6970554347_65c8c67a00.jpg" width="333" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/6970558957/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="333" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7203/6970558957_d58e019953.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/6970551065/" title="Freelensing with MIR-1 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Freelensing with MIR-1" height="333" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7067/6970551065_5503d93ea7.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<br />
The Jupiter 11 gets unsharp at the edges at maximum aperture:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/6837061582/" title="Jupiter 11 at f/4 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Jupiter 11 at f/4" height="333" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7204/6837061582_5630fcfc40.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
Nowadays, you have to buy a Lensbaby lens for similar effect. Having a Zenit 3m with the Jupiter 11, you just have to set the aperture to f/4.<br />
<br />
But it is sharp at the center when stopped down:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/8040891511/" title="Racing scooter by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Racing scooter" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8182/8040891511_0af73f8746.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
Tip: <i><u>never ever set shutter speed before cocking the shutter!</u> It can permanently damage the shutter. Remember: it's an old Zorki inside.</i><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://kiwiproject.tumblr.com/">Macro photography with Zenit 3m - is it possible?</a></li>
<li><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zenit_(camera)" target="_blank">The Zenit story on Wikipedia</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.sovietcams.com/index.php?1637569055" target="_blank">Zenit 3m on Sovietcams.com</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.fotosuli.hu/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=364:zenit-kisfilmes-mechanikus-orosz-tuekoerreflexgepek&catid=36:oldtimer&Itemid=28" target="_blank">The Zenit story in Hungarian - from György Török</a></li>
<li><a href="http://zorkiphoto.co.uk/2013/03/16/zenit-3m-camera-review/">Zenit 3m review by Stephen Dowling</a></li>
</ul>
Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10110818230262341583noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1695504003014491361.post-51443658362920321722012-06-17T23:52:00.000+02:002014-02-01T12:05:23.312+01:00Yashica FX-2<ul>
<li>Type: Yashica FX-2</li>
<li>Serial No: 71003798</li>
<li>Manufactured: from 1976</li>
<li>Manufacturer: Yashica</li>
<li>Shutter: Focal pane curtain </li>
<li>Shutter speeds: B, 1, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/15, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, 1/500, 1/1000</li>
<li>Lens: Yashica Lens ML 50mm 1:17</li>
<li>Aperture: 1.7, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16</li>
<li>Lens Serial No: A20167514</li>
<li>Lens mount: Y/C</li>
<li>Last CLA: 01/2012</li>
</ul>
<div>
This quite underrated camera is a cheaper, mechanical and manual pair of the Contax RTS also made by Yashica. Big metal body, great ergonomics, no automation, fully manual shutter. Microprism in the center to help focusing, TTL metering with match needle. Simple, heavy, reliable. Not a beauty but not ugly either. A true workhorse. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7173448081/" title="Yashica FX-2 / Yashica Lens ML 50mm 1:1.7 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Yashica FX-2 / Yashica Lens ML 50mm 1:1.7" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7097/7173448081_f465fceb80.jpg" height="333" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7358678500/" title="Yashica FX-2 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Yashica FX-2" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7079/7358678500_e4026a001c.jpg" height="333" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
To be honest, the only reason I've bought one was the C/Y mount. Contaxes with C/Y mount are too electronic to my taste but I didn't want to forsake the possibility of using those famous Zeiss lenses. I ended up buying an almost new FX-2 with an f/1.7 Yashica lens and a jammed shutter. Getting it repaired, I wanted to try out the f/1.7 and ran a roll of film through it. It was a love for the first sight. I wasn't impressed of the performance of the Yasinon 45mm/1.7 of my Electro 35 GSN but this lens is a completely different story. This lens have soul.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7173440765/" title="Yashica FX-2 / Yashica Lens ML 50mm 1:1.7 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Yashica FX-2 / Yashica Lens ML 50mm 1:1.7" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8026/7173440765_18768d226a.jpg" height="333" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7173439207/" title="Yashica FX-2 / Yashica Lens ML 50mm 1:1.7 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Yashica FX-2 / Yashica Lens ML 50mm 1:1.7" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7104/7173439207_cc48a332fb.jpg" height="333" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
On 1.7 the depth of field is really narrow so focusing is not easy. Better to take multiple shots to have one perfectly focused. But this is not the weakness of the lens nor of the camera. Manual focusing with narrow depth of field is challenging. That's why we like it.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7173445035/" title="Yashica FX-2 / Yashica Lens ML 50mm 1:1.7 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Yashica FX-2 / Yashica Lens ML 50mm 1:1.7" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7218/7173445035_338cf4cdb8.jpg" height="333" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7173443331/" title="Yashica FX-2 / Yashica Lens ML 50mm 1:1.7 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Yashica FX-2 / Yashica Lens ML 50mm 1:1.7" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8154/7173443331_d048774cc9.jpg" height="333" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
So this is a big, heavy, fully manual camera which is easy to use. If you need something reliable: this is it. If you don't want to struggle with the "specialties" of an old camera but want to go analog: choose this one. Cheap. Great lenses. If I must say something against it, there is only one thing: the shutter is inexplicably loud. But that's it. Nothing else. I've tried it for night shots and it was very handy in the dark too. And the photos it took...<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7048836641/" title="f/1.7 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="f/1.7" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7183/7048836641_260f4899ef.jpg" height="333" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7330753448/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8142/7330753448_fc5b06d3cd.jpg" height="333" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="333" mozallowfullscreen="" msallowfullscreen="" oallowfullscreen="" src="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7330756200/player/" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe>
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7387245466/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8164/7387245466_f4bb1ac72d.jpg" height="333" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7387249300/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7077/7387249300_f20d445fa1.jpg" height="333" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7387252844/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7228/7387252844_48b54bc3ba.jpg" height="333" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="333" mozallowfullscreen="" msallowfullscreen="" oallowfullscreen="" src="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/12210175406/in/photostream/player/" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe>
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="333" mozallowfullscreen="" msallowfullscreen="" oallowfullscreen="" src="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/12213379826/in/photostream/player/" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe>
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="333" mozallowfullscreen="" msallowfullscreen="" oallowfullscreen="" src="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/12225033925/in/photostream/player/" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe>
<br />
Shall I say more? Go and buy one.<br />
<br />
(No links this time because this camera handles so evidently that there is no need for more information. Just get one and enjoy using it.)Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10110818230262341583noreply@blogger.com19tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1695504003014491361.post-88425854293074420972012-03-31T00:25:00.000+02:002012-03-31T19:32:08.217+02:00Super Paxette<ul>
<li>Type: Super Paxette (II?)</li>
<li>Serial No: 267828</li>
<li>Manufactured: 1953-58</li>
<li>Manufacturer: Carl Braun Camerawerk</li>
<li>Shutter: Prontor-SVS metal leaf shutter</li>
<li>Shutter speeds: B, 1, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/15, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/300</li>
<li>Lens: Steinheil München - Cassarit 1:2.8 f=45mm</li>
<li>Aperture: 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16</li>
<li>Lens Serial No: 1573545</li>
<li>Lens is not interchangeable</li>
<li>Last CLA: 08/2011</li>
</ul>
<br />
This camera is a gem. You can tell it at first sight. The Carl Braun Camerawerk created an outstanding design. (This Braun has nothing to do with the one making hair dryers of course.) It looks beautiful and unique with a very high quality finish. In fact, the whole camera feels to be the highest quality. Every knob and ring works smoothly and firmly. It's like a Voigtlander. Lovely.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/6661180451/" title="Braun Super Paxette II by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Braun Super Paxette II" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7012/6661180451_9652921014.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/6661158761/" title="Braun Super Paxette II by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Braun Super Paxette II" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7150/6661158761_2eb2ea76c4.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
The camera is small and heavy. I mean really small and really heavy. The whole body is barely larger than two 135 film cartridges and the 36x24 mm frame. It has been specially designed to be as compact as possible.<br />
<br />
The handling is comfortable but needs some practice; everything is so small. The wind lever is almost a knob and it has to be stroken 2 times to forward the film and to cock the shutter. One could say that it was stuck in an earlier stage of the wind lever evolution but it's easy to get to like it after using it for a while. Unique solution for a unique camera.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/6662768241/" title="Braun Super Paxette II by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Braun Super Paxette II" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7026/6662768241_cb650c6d0b.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/6660991407/" title="Braun Super Paxette II by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Braun Super Paxette II" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7021/6660991407_088b17cd45.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
Shutter speeds up to 1/300 and an f/16 aperture requires a 100 ASA film in sunshine. The coupled rangefinder is easy to use, however the viewfinder is a bit narrow and dark. Not recommended for night photography. Otherwise it's a real joy to use it. It's a small precision equipment.<br />
<br />
Film loading is a special experience revealing more of the distinctive character of the camera. Just take a look at the pictures.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/6662773851/" title="Braun Super Paxette II by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Braun Super Paxette II" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7173/6662773851_371f7db308.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/6662764629/" title="Braun Super Paxette II by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Braun Super Paxette II" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7012/6662764629_783f2c5e36.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/6661183349/" title="Braun Super Paxette II by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Braun Super Paxette II" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7016/6661183349_043f69bd99.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
Almost everything is adorable on this little machinery except one thing: the lens. This Cassarit performs poorly. It has astonishingly low resolution. It cannot handle strong light. Almost every photo looks like to be overexposed but in fact they are not. Whites burn out immediately and leave a white golve around. The samples above were the best of more than 90 shots but still needed to be strongly enhanced digitally, especially in contrast.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/6217489221/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="375" src="http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6032/6217489221_cedae9929d.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/6166506281/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="333" src="http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6151/6166506281_b3bba770f5.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/6151112878/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="333" src="http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6079/6151112878_752aae2fd0.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/6150561017/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Untitled" height="333" src="http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6085/6150561017_4ab0c53aba.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
I enjoyed using the Super Paxette very much but getting the film back from the lab was a shock. The photos were unusable. The best thing can be told was that they were so vintage-looking. But if you compare it to other lenses of that age, this performance is simply miserable. However enjoyable and charming little construction it is, I ended up not liking this camera. I would love it with a Tessar or a Trioplan. What a pity.<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://camerapedia.wikia.com/wiki/Paxette%20">Braun Paxette on Camerapedia</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.butkus.org/chinon/paxette/paxette_super_ii/paxette_super_ii.htm">Braun Super Paxette II manual at Butkus.org</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.ukcamera.com/classic_cameras/braun1.htm">Braun Paxettes at ukcamera.com</a></li>
</ul>Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10110818230262341583noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1695504003014491361.post-85483344846852076452011-03-26T23:15:00.015+01:002011-06-24T23:09:36.976+02:00Kine Exakta / Kine Exacta<ul><li>Type: Kine-Exacta Type 5 or according to an other classification: Kine-Exakta Type 1.2 - post-war model with "c" spelling; or according to a third one: Kine-Exacta I - Post War Version 2.2</li>
<li>Serial No: 617715</li>
<li>Manufactured: 1948</li>
<li>Manufacturer: Ihagee, Dresden, Germany</li>
<li>Shutter: Focal plane horizontally travelling textile curtain</li>
<li>Slow shutter speeds: 12, 11, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4, 3, 2, 1, 1/2, 1/5</li>
<li>Slow shutter speeds with self timer: 6, 5, 3, 2, 1 1/2, 3/4, 1/5</li>
<li>Fast shutter speeds: B, Z, 1/25, 1/50, 1/100, 1/150, 1/250, 1/500, 1/1000</li>
<li>Lens: Meyer-Optik Görlitz Primagon 1:4.5/35</li>
<li>Aperture: 4.5-22 stopless</li>
<li>Lens Serial No: 1826515</li>
<li>Lens mount: Ihagee/Exakta/Exa bayonet</li>
<li>Last CLA: 06/2011</li>
</ul><br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5561948475/" title="Kine Exacta / Kine Exakta Type 5 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Kine Exacta / Kine Exakta Type 5" height="375" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5095/5561948475_d9dbb22c94.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5561949431/" title="Kine Exacta / Kine Exakta Type 5 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Kine Exacta / Kine Exakta Type 5" height="375" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5298/5561949431_1fd8f099a3.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<div>Kine Exakta was the World's first 35 mm SLR camera. It was in production from the spring of 1936. (In fact the prototype of the Russian <a href="http://camera-wiki.org/wiki/Sport_(SLR)">Sport</a> preceeded it in 1934 but it was not ready for the mass production until 1937.) The 'Kine' in its name refers to the Cinema, where the standard 35mm film was used for motion pictures at that time. In fact, the first self-made 35mm still cameras were used by motion picture makers to take quick test shots. This heritage can be found in the Kine Exakta in the form of a small embedded film cutting blade next to the film cassette compartment. It can be used to cut out the exposed part of the film to develop it quickly without waiting for the rest of the roll to be exposed. (See the small hooklike blade in the center of the picture below.)<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5561962191/" title="Kine Exacta / Kine Exakta Type 5 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Kine Exacta / Kine Exakta Type 5" height="375" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5140/5561962191_70ee7256a6.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
Ihagee was a serious player on the medium format market producing quality folder and reflex cameras. The predecessor of the Kine Exakta was the VP Exakta, an SLR using 127 (Vest Pocket) film, hence its name. Both of them was designed by Karl Nüchterlein, a forgotten genius. The VP Exakta was a superior camera in 1933 with shutter speeds 12s to 1/1000, focal pane shutter, interchangeable bayonet-mount lens and, before 1940, wind lever cocking the shutter and putting the mirror in position. The Kine Exakta continued this path in the 35mm film market.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5562528860/" title="Kine Exacta / Kine Exakta Type 5 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5138/5562528860_7d044f45ea.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Kine Exacta / Kine Exakta Type 5" /></a><br />
<br />
Now let's see the shutters. There are two of them - one for short speeds and one for long speeds and self timer. Using the short speeds from 1/25 to 1/1000, B and Z is quite simple. Cock the fast shutter with hte film wind lever an set the speed with the disc on the left. (You have to pull up the disc and rotate it in the direction of the arrow until the inner dot matches the desired speed number.) B means Bulb mode; shutter stays open until the release button is pressed. Z means that shutter opens for the first press of the release button and closes for the second - remaining open between the two.<br />
<br />
To use long exposure times you have to cock the fast shutter and set the left disc to Z or B. Then cock the slow shutter turning the right disc counterclockwise until it stops and set the desired long speed using the longer scale (from 1/5 to 12).<br />
<br />
The self timer can be accessed using the shorter scale (from 1/5 to 6) on the right side disc. If you want to use long exposition with the self timer you just cock the fast timer and set it to B or Z. Then you cock the slow shutter and set the desired time on the shorter scale. <br />
<br />
To use short times with the self timer you should cock the fast shutter and set it to the desired speed. Then you cock the slow shutter and set it to any speed on the shorter scale.<br />
<br />
So you have 20 normal speeds and 15 with self timer! Sophisticated enough? And one more thing. You cannot release the shutter with the finder hood closed; there is a shutter lock mechanism preventing unwanted expositions. <br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5562532344/" title="Kine Exacta / Kine Exakta Type 5 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5098/5562532344_fd6b30366e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="Kine Exacta / Kine Exakta Type 5"></a><br />
<br />
<br />
[More to come soon...]<br />
<br />
</div><div><a href="http://www.wrotniak.net/photo/exakta/exakta-serial.html">Wrotniak.net - Exakta Taxonomy</a><br />
<a href="http://www.exakta.org/org35/orgkine/orgkineart.html">Kine Exakta on exakta.org</a><br />
<a href="http://camera-wiki.org/wiki/Kine_Exakta">Camera-wiki.org about Kine Exakta</a><br />
<a href="http://ihagee.org/">ihagee.org</a><br />
<a href="http://www.ihagee.org/Manuals/mankineexakta.pdf">Kine Exakta manual on ihagee.org</a> (PDF)<br />
<br />
</div>Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10110818230262341583noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1695504003014491361.post-7452038849977045612011-03-13T18:22:00.002+01:002012-06-30T13:57:59.336+02:00Kiev IIa<ul>
<li>Type: IIa</li>
<li>Serial No: 5703793</li>
<li>Manufactured: 1957</li>
<li>Manufacturer: Arsenal Factory, Kiev, Ukraine, SSSR</li>
<li>Shutter: vertically travelling metal "curtain" shutter</li>
<li>Shutter speeds: B, 1/2, 1/5, 1/10, 1/25, 1/50, 1/125, 1/250, 1/500, 1/1250</li>
<li>Lens: Jupiter-M8 1:2 F=5 cm</li>
<li>Aperture: 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16, 22</li>
<li>Lens No: 6516489</li>
<li>Lens mount: Contax bayonet</li>
<li>Last CLA: 10/2010</li>
</ul>
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5524195174/" title="Kiev IIa by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Kiev IIa" height="375" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5294/5524195174_f92dbc0f64.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
I have always wanted a Contax II. This camera is a copy of it. I was really excited when I finally got it to my hands after the CLA.<br />
<br />
Contax meant to be the camera system to rule the 35mm market and push Leica off its trone. Contaxes were technically more advanced with their larger rangefinder base, rangefinder integrated into the viewfinder, removable back for easy film loading, sharper and faster lenses, bayonett lens mount, faster and sun-resistant vertically traveling metal curtain shutter, built in self timer and later the integrated selenium light meter.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5523604639/" title="Kiev IIa by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Kiev IIa" height="375" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5054/5523604639_927e1f05f7.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5523614225/" title="Kiev IIa by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Kiev IIa " height="375" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5051/5523614225_d15f33d27c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5524205402/" title="Kiev IIa by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Kiev IIa" height="375" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5016/5524205402_df14a063c0.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
The first Kiev rangefinders were relabeled Contaxes produced by the Karl Zeiss Dresden factory at the end of WWII. After the War the Soviet army transferred the machinery, parts and engineers from Dresden to Kiev to establish the production of the Russian Kiev rangefinders in the Arsenal factory. They even produced Contax labeled cameras in the beginnings. The Russians took some engineers from the Zeiss Jena factory as well where the legendary Sonnar lenses were made to copy them under the Jupiter name. (The same engineers who, after going back to Germany, designed the legendary <a href="http://thecameracollection.blogspot.com/2010/10/werra-matic.html">Werra</a> cameras.) The Russians modified the plans to reduce the precision needed and make the manufacturing more simple.<br />
<br />
But let's come back to the Kiev IIa. Let me explain how this camera gradually transformed my opinion.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5524201218/" title="Kiev IIa by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Kiev IIa" height="375" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5140/5524201218_41f08e34be.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5523611561/" title="Kiev IIa by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Kiev IIa " height="375" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5099/5523611561_8b839a09a4.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<b>1. Before The First Rol</b>l<br />
Before the first roll I was amazed by its look. The square design suits it well. The lens is a masterpiece. I loved it and hardly waited to start shooting with it.<br />
<br />
<b>2. Shooting the First Roll</b><br />
Well, it's a strange camera. You cannot set the aperture unless you lock the focus to infinity because otherwise the aperture ring twists the whole lens setting the focus. And the rangefinder. The famous Contax rangefinder. It's almost impossible to set the focus with it because the left and the right side of the rangefinder frame matches at different distances. It's somehow too precise to be useful. Very difficult to handle. The other thing is the shutter. Setting the speed is quite problematic with that inconvenient knob which you have to pull out and twist while you are reading the speed marks engraved <i>under</i> the knob. The metal curtain shutter sounds great but, in reality, it's heavy like hell. It has a momentum which makes the camera "nod" after the exposition. Really. It feels strange. No, this camera will never take a single usable photo that's sure. The designers had to do something in lower shutter speeds to make it somehow nearly useable so they slowed down the speed of the curtain. Very much. Looks ridiculous. Summarizing: it's an uncomfortable, difficult, impractical thing which is basically incapable of taking sharp photos.<br />
<br />
<b>3. Shooting the Second Roll</b><br />
I don't know, everybody likes Contaxes and Kievs so there must be something in them. I'll give it a second try. Still uncomfortable but gets better when you get used to it. First set the aperture. Part of the composition. Then match the speed. Finally set the focus. Can be used this way. The large rangefinder base definitely needs some practice but it's precise like nothing else.<br />
<br />
<b>4. Getting the Rolls Back from the Lab</b><br />
Wow! How the hell... These photos look great! Did they really come out of <i>that</i> camera? Sharp, crisp and beautifully rendered. No, you cannot hate something which takes this kind of pictures. It simply must be loved. Let's put another roll of fim in it.<br />
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<b>5. Third Roll</b></div>
<div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
I love it. A great camera. It takes fantastic photos and that is what matters at the end of the day. Doesn't it?</div>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5182171563/" title="Volkswagen Karmann Ghia by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Volkswagen Karmann Ghia" height="337" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4104/5182171563_96c2d7cdfe.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5182170201/" title="Adam with his Yashica by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Adam with his Yashica" height="333" src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1032/5182170201_a47803b2b2.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5390668639/" title="Ford Capri MK1 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Ford Capri MK1" height="333" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5011/5390668639_47f3af1e8c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5500404127/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5139/5500404127_eb8e062eec.jpg" width="333" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5502487788/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="" height="333" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5014/5502487788_5a189dfdff.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
This is how I ended loving this camera so much. It renders almost in 3D. I haven't seen anything like this before.<br />
<br />
<i><b>WARNING!</b></i><br />
<i>Always cock the shutter before setting the speed. Never set the speed first or you will damage the shutter permanently.</i> (Some later types are not vulnerable to this but you’d better not count on it.)<br />
<br />
<i><br />
</i><br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.camerapedia.org/wiki/Kiev_rangefinder">Kiev rangefinders in Camerapedia</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.russianplaza.com/Kiev%202%20%203%204%205%20range%20finder%20history.htm">Kiev rangefinder versions on RussianPlaza.com</a></li>
<li><a href="http://butkus.org/chinon/russian/kiev-4/kiev-4_kiev-4a.pdf">Kiev IV manual</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www3.telus.net/public/rpnchbck/zconrfKiev.htm">The Kiev/Contax story in details</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.zeisshistorica.org/sample.html">Zeisshistorica.org - Contax to Kiev</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.camerapedia.org/wiki/Contax_rangefinder">Contax rangefinders in Camerapedia</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.cameraquest.com/zconrf2.htm">Cameraquest on Contax II and III</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.fotosuli.hu/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=70:kiev-a-no-name-contax&catid=36:oldtimer&Itemid=28">An article on Kiev and Contax rangefinders in Hungarian</a></li>
</ul>Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10110818230262341583noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1695504003014491361.post-91287829625410402642011-02-27T21:10:00.004+01:002013-12-07T23:03:06.561+01:00Voigtlander Bessamatic<ul>
<li>Serial No: 66717</li>
<li>Manufactured: 1958 - 1960</li>
<li>Shutter: Synchro Compur</li>
<li>Shutter speeds: B, 1, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/15, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, 1/500</li>
<li>Lens: Color-Skopar X 1:2,8/50</li>
<li>Aperture: 2.8 - 22 stepless</li>
<li>Lens No: 4970657</li>
<li>Lens mount: Bessamatic bayonet (very similar but not identical to the Retina Reflex mount)</li>
<li>Last CLA: unknown</li>
</ul>
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4980106371/" title="Voigtlander Bessamatic set by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Voigtlander Bessamatic set" height="452" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4129/4980106371_c19b011238.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
Big? Yes, it's big but there are other big cameras as well. Heavy? Like a rock but it's still not a unique feature. If I had to use one word to describe the Bessamatic it would be the quality. The unimaginable Voigtlander quality is what makes this camera outstanding. And the handiness. <br />
<br />
By the way, this was the first camera in the World wich had a zoom lens, the 36-82mm Zoomar as an accessory. On my wishlist. But let's get back to the camera itself.<br />
<br />
Bessamatic was the last in the line started with Contaflex and followed by Retina Reflex, both with leaf shutter and interchangeable lens. These SLRs were quite compicated with a lens shutter and a second shutter behind the mirror. The push of the shutter release button triggered a series of complex events which had to take place very quickly: close the lens shutter, reduce the lens aperture to the preset f-stop, raise the reflex mirror, open the second shutter and finally open and close the lens shutter to expose the film to the light. You could hear the noise of slim metallic parts busily swirling.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4980105499/" title="Voigtlander Bessamatic by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Voigtlander Bessamatic " height="368" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4125/4980105499_fb39884055.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
I'm not sure which camera was the first with the meter match needles displayed in the viewfinder but lots of photographers were thankful for this feature. The designers of the Bessamatic tried to make the whole picture taking process as easy as possible. You just have to turn the topleft dial to match the needles in the viewfinder and turn the aperture/speed ring to shift between the corresponding aperture and shutter speed values. Or set the speed first with the ring and find the appropriate aperture with the dial. Two moving small red indicators show the dept-of-field for the given aperture as you set it with the dial. Focusing is guided by a split image prism. Everything feels so natural.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4980713680/" title="Voigtlander Bessamatic by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Voigtlander Bessamatic " height="453" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4090/4980713680_621b041d31.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
Here are some field experiences with the Bessamatic. It's too heavy to told it in your hands for long time. It's too heavy to hang it on your neck using the neck strap of the ever ready case; it causes muscle pain after a while. It's too heavy to bring with you everywhere but it worth the effort. This camera can cause a sort of addiction. You don't want to use anything else after you tried it. It's so precise, it works like a clock. It operates easy. Everything on it is extremely good quality. <br />
<br />
For night shooting the Bessamatic is almost as good as the Werra Matic, however, you can have difficulties seeing the speed/aperture settings in the dark. Be aware that he otherwise precise selenium cell is not accurate in low light conditions. Here are some sample shots on a high ASA Ilford Delta film:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5063122732/" title="The Muflon Drinking-Trough by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="The Muflon Drinking-Trough" height="500" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4125/5063122732_0c2f7f8837.jpg" width="343" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5063119366/" title="First staircase by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="First staircase" height="500" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4133/5063119366_fd21ccdd2e.jpg" width="295" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5062507037/" title="Hatshop by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Hatshop" height="500" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4108/5062507037_fc8538af24.jpg" width="334" /></a><br />
<br />
And some color shots:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5105248311/" title="Color-Skopar X by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Color-Skopar X" height="339" src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1127/5105248311_de02119125.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5189445101/" title="Pioneers by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Pioneers" height="336" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4084/5189445101_30e012a553.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5105841004/" title="Somló by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Somló" height="337" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4127/5105841004_63a963dd3c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
I love this camera. Here is a last shot using the macro extension lens:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5105247349/" title="Certo Dollina by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Certo Dollina" height="362" src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1052/5105247349_169a73beaa.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.photoethnography.com/ClassicCameras/index-frameset.html?VoigtlanderBessamatic.html~mainFrame">Voigtlander Bessamatic on Photoethnography</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.camerapedia.org/wiki/Bessamatic">Voigtlander Bessamatic on Camerapedia</a></li>
<li><a href="http://mconnealy.com/vintagecameras/bessamatic/">Mike Connealy on Bessamatic</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.retrography.com/bessamatic.htm">The Bessamatic page of Retrography.com</a></li>
<li><a href="http://elekm.net/pages/cameras/bessamatic.htm">Mike Elek's Bessamatic review</a></li>
</ul>
Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10110818230262341583noreply@blogger.com21tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1695504003014491361.post-27324036789616358062011-02-07T21:07:00.005+01:002013-04-01T00:22:39.803+02:00Ihagee Exa<ul>
<li>Version: 4</li>
<li>Serial No: 504555</li>
<li>Manufactured: 1957</li>
<li>Manufacturer: Ihagee, Dresden, Germany</li>
<li>Shutter: “Guillotine-type” Exa specialty</li>
<li>Speeds: 1/150, 1/100, 1/50, 1/25, B</li>
<li>Lens: Meyer-Optik Görlitz Trioplan 1:2.9/50</li>
<li>Lens No:1996718</li>
<li>Apertures:2.9, 4, 5.6, 8. 11. 16. 22</li>
<li>Lens mount: Ihagee/Exakta/Exa bayonet</li>
<li>Last CLA: unknown</li>
</ul>
This is one of the best looking things ever made. No doubt about it. Look at this picture. Something you want to possess immediately, isn’t it? The good news is that you can buy one for less than EUR 50 on ebay.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4974100474/" title="Ihagee Exa by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Ihagee Exa" height="500" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4103/4974100474_cf38413edd.jpg" width="438" /></a><br />
<br />
This camera is the older brother of the Exa Ia, I’m going to compare with. People often call it Exa 0 to distinguish it from the latter I and II models. <br />
<br />
The most striking difference is the look. The Ia was a nice camera but the 0 is simply beautiful. Sparkling metal everywhere, knobs and buttons, and this nice engraving on the front plate, all in all, this camera is a dangerous seducer.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4973484787/" title="Ihagee Exa by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Ihagee Exa" height="500" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4154/4973484787_458574de5e.jpg" width="389" /></a><br />
<br />
The cheap feel of the Ia is not present when you hold the Exa 0 in your hand. It feels solid and precise. And it’s so damn good looking that you tend to forgive anything anyway. Even the sound of the shutter which is the same empty can noise as of the Exa Ia. But don’t hear, look!<br />
<br />
There is charm everywhere on this camera. You can set the shutter speed with a stick for example. Isn’t it delightful? Of course it is.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4974101710/" title="Ihagee Exa by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Ihagee Exa" height="500" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4128/4974101710_6e69ae648c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
Now let’s see the handling. This camera have a Trioplan lens which is great but it doesn’t include automatic aperture stop down so you have to set focus on maximum aperture and stop down manually before the exposition. Another issue is the finder. There is no focusing aid in the prism so using it is more difficult than the finder of the Ia which is brighter, have better loupe and gives us the comfort of a microprism. So the Ia is much easier and faster to use.<br />
<br />
But the Exa 0 is a piece of gem and it even provides us with a “sport finder”. Or at least a hole that can be called this way. It cannot be used to focus or set anything but it’s so nice that it even exists.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4974102196/" title="Ihagee Exa by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Ihagee Exa" height="500" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4108/4974102196_f5c1966d0d.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4973486129/" title="Ihagee Exa by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Ihagee Exa" height="500" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4126/4973486129_40dac2eb68.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
Maybe beauty is not everything but it is almost. That’s why we love this camera. Finally some words about the lens. I love the Trioplans since I tried one on my Altix. They render beautifully, especially compared with the Domiplans. The Domiplans are boring, the images are unsharp and the colors need lots of digital post-processing not to be dead-grey. The best you can tell is that they are reliable and even the old ones are in generally good shape. But don’t go for it. There is a large lens selection for the Exas. Tessars for example. But the best choice can be the Trioplan. It is a mid-priced lens and this suits well for the cheap-SLR concept of the Exa family. Trioplan is the best on the mid-priced lens palette, standing out the same way as the Exa stands out from the other cameras of its price range. Or even more.<br />
<br />
Some test shots in BW<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4888588469/" title="Before hitting the road by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Before hitting the road" height="500" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4097/4888588469_952e13c42d.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4888587077/" title="On the road by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="On the road" height="333" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4136/4888587077_3014356bba.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
And here is the undeniable evidence of the superiority of the Trioplan lens. Look at them in full res. Look at the textures. And the bokeh. Crisp like nothing else. I love it.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5884912573/" title="I'm in love with Trioplan - 1 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="I'm in love with Trioplan - 1" height="333" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5271/5884912573_eb239df423.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5884914891/" title="I'm in love with Trioplan - 2 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="I'm in love with Trioplan - 2" height="333" src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6003/5884914891_0c169360f1.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5884916133/" title="She's out of focus by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="She's out of focus" height="500" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5313/5884916133_b2aa951638.jpg" width="333" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5885484024/" title="Lookout tower by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Lookout tower" height="333" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5273/5885484024_ce9d9e547c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5884918807/" title="Wheat by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Wheat" height="333" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5076/5884918807_812a333eae.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://basepath.com/wp/?p=206">The Exa shutter</a></li>
<li><a href="http://exakta.org/org35/orgexa/orgexa.html">Exa on exakta.org</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.photoethnography.com/ClassicCameras/index-frameset.html?IhageeExa.html~mainFrame">Exa on photoethnography.com</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.cameraquest.com/exa1.htm">The Original Exa - cameraquest.com</a></li>
</ul>
Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10110818230262341583noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1695504003014491361.post-43947213729076121962011-01-27T21:04:00.005+01:002011-03-21T00:42:39.186+01:00Yashica Electro 35 GSN<ul><li>Type: GSN</li>
<li>Serial No: H 662891</li>
<li>Manufactured: 1973 - 1977</li>
<li>Manufacturer: Yashica</li>
<li>Shutter: electromagnetically controlled Copal metal leaf shutter</li>
<li>Shutter speeds: stepless from 1/500 to ~30 s (depends on the aperture) and B</li>
<li>Lens: Color Yashinon DX 1:1.7 f=45mm</li>
<li>Aperture: 1.7, 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16</li>
<li>Lens mount: fixed</li>
<li>Last CLA: none, it's virtually new</li>
</ul><br />
I’ve got this camera and the extension lens set in their original boxes, even the protective plastic bags were on them. <br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4950731571/" title="Yashica Electro 35 GSN by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Yashica Electro 35 GSN" height="375" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4102/4950731571_d32b235de3.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4950732187/" title="Yashica Electro 35 GSN by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Yashica Electro 35 GSN" height="414" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4144/4950732187_04fc700d7e.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4951326970/" title="Yashica Electro 35 GSN wide and tele extension lens set by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Yashica Electro 35 GSN wide and tele extension lens set" height="500" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4107/4951326970_889ab59239.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
Ever ready case, lens holder, straps, user’s manual, auxiliary finder, lens caps, everything. And it was virtually unused. (Ok, there was a film cartridge in the camera and an old battery but there were no other signs of use and the extension set was not even unpacked.) Am I a lucky guy? Yes, I am.<br />
<br />
The Yashica Electro 35 GSN is an interesting aperture priority camera which needs an 5.6 V mercury battery (don’t worry, you can find good replacement batteries). The battery is needed by the CdS light sensot and the stepless, semi-electronic shutter which is basically a mechanical metal leaf shutter controlled electro-magnetically (the quietest shutter I’ve ever heard). So you can use the camera without battery but you will lose light metering and will be limited to only one shutter speed: 1/500. Not bad for daylight photography, though.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4951327722/" title="Yashica Electro 35 GSN by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Yashica Electro 35 GSN" height="375" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4094/4951327722_6b2148b641.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
The camera itself is big and heavy like hell. The body is full metal and ready to make serious injuries if the situation requires. The extension lens kit is quite impressive but almost unusable in the practice because the coupled rangefinder needs post-calculations on focus setting if you put an extension lens on. However, the 45mm focal lenght of the default lens is very comfortable in most of the cases.<br />
<br />
I don’t like this Yashinon lens, I have to admit. It can be my fault but I don’t like the way it renders the pictures and the colors. I’m seemingly alone with this opinion because the net is full of praises of its sharpness and other superior qualities. Sorry guys, I still don't like it.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4971808804/" title="Monet-Goyon motocycle by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Monet-Goyon motocycle" height="378" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4110/4971808804_2c062f6044.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4590395696/" title="BMW race car by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="BMW race car" height="356" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4014/4590395696_8f00fd1065.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
An interesting solution of the light metering: it is adjusted to the film speed with a little aperture on the top left of the camera front. You can see it moving when you set the ISO value on the top. The metering is surprisingly precise, by the way.<br />
<br />
<ul><li><a href="http://www.kenrockwell.com/yashica/electro-35.htm">Ken Rockwell about Yashica Electro 35</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.yashica-guy.com/document/chrono.html">Yashica Guy’s Electro 35 chronology page</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.photoethnography.com/ClassicCameras/index-frameset.html?YashicaElectro35GSN.html~mainFrame">Photoethnography on Yashica Electro 35 GSN</a></li>
</ul>Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10110818230262341583noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1695504003014491361.post-65337865766949047022011-01-10T20:59:00.004+01:002012-04-06T19:49:31.942+02:00FED-2<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4947594559/" title="Two FED-2s together by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Two FED-2s together" height="255" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4104/4947594559_2b8affb358.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
Great cameras have great stories behind them and this applies to the FED-2 which was named after Felix Edmundovich Dzerzhinsky alias Iron Felix. Iron Felix wasn’t a cartoon superhero but he was the founder of the fearful Bolshevik secret police called Vecheka, well-known from its brutality. It was the ancestor of the latter KGB. He got the assignment directly from Vladimir Ilyich Lenin.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f8/Felix_Dzerzhinsky_1919.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f8/Felix_Dzerzhinsky_1919.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>F.E. Dzerzhinsky</i></div>
<br />
Felix Edmundovich Dzerzhinsky wasn’t an optical engineer. He wasn’t a photographer either. But he must have been quite influential because they named six towns after him, and, most importantly, a labor commune in Kharkov, Ukraine. This rehabilitation commune of abandoned youths (or prison of young criminals, mostly 13-17 year old boys and girls, as the rumor says) was led by the reputed Soviet pedagogue, director Anton Semyonovich Makarenko, famous after his theory of collective discipline. Here they started to manufacture the Soviet Union’s first 35mm camera, the FED, during Stalin’s push for the industrial and economic transformation of Russia. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_tFZ49cbbp1I/TGfFEmBSNEI/AAAAAAAAAxc/Ww7kHkAA2Kg/FED_manufacture_small.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="229" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_tFZ49cbbp1I/TGfFEmBSNEI/AAAAAAAAAxc/Ww7kHkAA2Kg/FED_manufacture_small.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<i>Young communards working in the F. E. Dzerzhinsky Commune - 1934</i></div>
<br />
The FED was based on the Leica II(D) - the Russians bought the license from the German company for the camera body, the collapsible Elmar lens and the 35mm Leica film cassette in 1932. But they didn’t just copy it, they made some developments as well. Soon, the FED-2 was born. It wasn’t a simple Leica replica anymore.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4947547983/" title="FED-2 type B2 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="FED-2 type B2" height="370" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4089/4947547983_aa72728600.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Type: B2</li>
<li>Serial No: 153914</li>
<li>Manufactured: 1956 - 1958</li>
<li>Manufacturer: Felix Edmundovich Dzerzhinsky Labour Commune, Kharkov, Ukraine, SSSR</li>
<li>Shutter: curtain</li>
<li>Speeds: 1/25, 1/50, 1/100, 1/250, 1/500 and B</li>
<li>Lens: FED 1:3,5 F=50mm</li>
<li>Apertures: 3,5 - 16 without stops</li>
<li>Lens No: 280375</li>
<li>Lens mount: M39</li>
<li>Last CLA: 06/2010</li>
</ul>
<br />
The FED-2 got a large, Contax-like 67mm coupled rangefinder and a Contax-like film loading mechanism while keeping the ergonomic Leica design and the Leica shutter. The best from both world, one may say. The FED-2 is therefore a very comfortable and surprisingly usable camera.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4948136672/" title="FED-2 type B2 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="FED-2 type B2" height="333" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4094/4948136672_8544759f05.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
I love the way you have to cock the curtain shutter: you can feel the curtain rolling to the spool. The exposition feels a bit clumsy as the curtains roll down but in fact, the shutter is quite precise. The whole process is simply lovely.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4947548847/" title="FED-2 type B2 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="FED-2 type B2" height="500" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4079/4947548847_02270ab090.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
Despite the compact look, the FED-2 is heavy and solid as a rock so you can use it for self-defending purposes in case of need. The knobs rotate a bit rough, you can feel that it’s a Russian piece of machinery of the not-too-precise-but-surviving-everything kind.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4948138406/" title="FED-2 type B2 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="FED-2 type B2" height="364" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4107/4948138406_cbc45b8531.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4948137444/" title="FED-2 type B2 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="FED-2 type B2" height="364" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4105/4948137444_5a85ecb451.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
The camera design is so simple that it’s almost impossible to wreck and cheap to get repaired. They made more than one million FED-2s so it’s not too difficult to find spare parts. However, parts of different cameras are not necessarily interchangeable from two reasons: firstly, there were about 30 more or less different types of it, secondly, they were made by hand so the sizes and the location of screw holes may differ a little. <br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4831583998/" title="Rest by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Rest" height="359" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4085/4831583998_04dae4902e.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
The collapsible FED lens is not the sharpest one I ever had, but it’s a big fun to use it. First, you have to pull it out of the camera body, then you have to twist it while pulling to lock it. Don’t forget to push it back a little to check you locked it properly otherwise you can get an out of focus image like this:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4831582534/" title="Landscape out of focus by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Landscape out of focus" height="333" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4151/4831582534_c67fa48f03.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
You can call it artistic anyway.<br />
<br />
Now let’s see the other one:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4947595019/" title="FED-2 type D6 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="FED-2 type D6" height="351" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4151/4947595019_305ebf2e03.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<ul>
<li>Type: D6</li>
<li>Serial No: 2343868</li>
<li>Manufactured: 1959 - 1968</li>
<li>Manufacturer: Felix Edmundovich Dzerzhinsky Labour Commune, Kharkov, Ukraine, SSSR</li>
<li>Shutter: curtain</li>
<li>Speeds: 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, 1/500 and B</li>
<li>Lens: FED I-26m 2,8/52</li>
<li>Apertures: 2.8 - 22 without stops</li>
<li>Lens No: 1581284</li>
<li>Lens mount: M39</li>
<li>Last CLA: 06/2010</li>
</ul>
<br />
I ‘ve got this camera from a girl working at the photo lab when I took a few rolls of film there for development. She was enthusiastic about digital photography and didn’t understand why I used a film camera. This FED-2 was her grandfather’s camera but she never used it and wanted it to be in good hands so she handed it over to me. I’ve got it CLA-d and promised to take care of it. He made me promise to show the first roll taken with it but I couldn’t find her at the shop anymore despite that I tried it several times.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4947595357/" title="FED-2 type D6 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="FED-2 type D6" height="353" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4152/4947595357_91a4590a4a.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
This later type FED-2 feels to be exactly as well-balanced in the hand as the older one, with the same vulcanite exterior which gives a good grip. The main difference is that the knobs work more easily and more precisely. There is a minor change in shutter speeds which I wouldn’t call an enhancement: 25, 50 and 100 was replaced by 30, 60 and 125. The shutter itself is a newer design: it’s not as vulnerable to improper handling as the older ones were.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4948183982/" title="FED-2 type D6 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="FED-2 type D6" height="500" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4128/4948183982_d3c1f023c6.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
The pretty collapsible FED lens was replaced by a definitely better performing but less charming Industar 26 labeled as FED I-26m with a strange 52mm focal lenght. It is sharper and renders definitely better pictures than its collapsible brother.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4827283565/" title="Bales by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Bales" height="415" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4080/4827283565_e3c26b7ff0.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4823384016/" title="The widest aperture by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="The widest aperture" height="500" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4080/4823384016_684069dc5d.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4821469473/" title="Elisabeth Bridge by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Elisabeth Bridge" height="341" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4115/4821469473_869175df0c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4821469429/" title="St. Stephen's Basilica by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="St. Stephen's Basilica" height="349" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4138/4821469429_0bba558514.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
Here are two really important warnings if you want to use a FED:<br />
<ol>
<li>Always cock the shutter before setting the speed. Never set the speed first or you damage the shutter permanently. (Some later types are not vulnerable to this but you’d better not count on it.)</li>
<li>Never turn the lens to the sun. It will burn holes into the shutter curtain. Use lens cap every time.</li>
</ol>
The FED-2 is a popular camera among vintage camera users because it’s cheap, handy, good looking and has a special story behind. You will find lots of information about it on the net. Here are some starting points:<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.mattdentonphoto.com/cameras/fed_2.html">Matt Denton’s FED 2 review</a></li>
<li><a href="http://sovietcamera.110mb.com/fed2/">An exhaustive FED 2 article by Stephen Rothery</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.mattdentonphoto.com/images/FED-2_manual.pdf">FED 2 manual</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.sovietcams.com/index.php?1080963993">Fed 2 types</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.fedka.com/Useful_info/Commune_by_Fricke/commune_A.htm">The Dzerzhinsky Commune: Birth of the Soviet 35mm Camera Industry</a></li>
<li><a href="http://jay.fedka.com/">The FED and Zorki Survival Site</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.fotoklikk.hu/sites/default/files/faces_files/fed-2-az-orosz-leica.pdf">An article in Hungarian about FED-2</a></li>
</ul>Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10110818230262341583noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1695504003014491361.post-6976509888803886262010-12-27T20:55:00.002+01:002011-03-21T00:38:43.180+01:00Exa Ia<ul><li>Type: Ia</li>
<li>Serial No: 379142</li>
<li>Manufactured: 1965-1977</li>
<li>Manufacturer: Ihagee, Dresden, Germany</li>
<li>Shutter: “guillotine-type” focal plane</li>
<li>Speeds: 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/175 and B</li>
<li>Lens: Meyer-Optik Görlitz Domiplan 2.8/50</li>
<li>Apertures: 2.8 - 22 in half stops</li>
<li>Lens No:5116628</li>
<li>Lens mount: Ihagee/Exakta/Exa bayonet</li>
<li>Last CLA: unknown</li>
</ul><br />
The Exa Ia is a cheap and simple SLR camera system from Ihagee with interchangeable lens, interchangeable finder and lots of accessories (like a 3 parts macro tube for as close focusing as 2 cm). It was designed to be an affordable alternative of the more sophisticated and higher quality Exakta series.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4651157056/" title="EXA Ia by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="EXA Ia" height="375" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4069/4651157056_8647fc9151.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
It comes with a waist-level finder which can be replaced with a normal eye-level finder but why anybody would do that? A waist-level finder is a great fun. Firstly because you have to compose in a mirror (and it’s not as easy as you think). Secondly you will get a completely different perspective. Composing while the camera is on the ground is not a problem anymore. Same applies when you hold it up above your head. Finally, the waist-level finder is the less obtrusive solution possible. Most people will not even notice that you take photo.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4651157072/" title="EXA Ia by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="EXA Ia" height="375" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4036/4651157072_afd6a2a270.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4651157064/" title="EXA Ia by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="EXA Ia" height="376" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4016/4651157064_f886b65fca.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
Then comes that ugly clash. The Exas have a very simple shutter which is basically the mirror itself making a noise of an empty can. It’s really ugly. Simplicity means a limited choice of speeds from 1/30 to 1/175 which is surprisingly enough in most of the cases. Simplicity also means reliability: it’s free from the slowdown in cold - a typical problem of other mechanical shutters having higher speeds.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4651157066/" title="EXA Ia by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="EXA Ia" height="388" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4037/4651157066_6efc353df1.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
The camera itself is somehow wobbly. However, it’s wobbly in a German way. For example the cover of the waist-level finder is beveled because of an imprecise fastening. But not only on mine - it’s beveled on all Exa Ia-s exactly the same way. Engineered discrepancy.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4651157074/" title="EXA Ia by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="EXA Ia" height="384" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4036/4651157074_98dcd39d2e.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
The manufacturer was IHAGEE, a strangely named camera company founded by a Dutchman in Dresden, Germany (the name is the German pronunciation of the acronym IHG standing for Industrie- und Handelsgesellschaft).<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4651157064/" title="EXA Ia by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="EXA Ia" height="376" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4016/4651157064_f886b65fca.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
You can find several lenses for the EXA Ia since it has a standard IHAGEE Exakta/Exa bayonet mount. Mine came with a Domiplan lens which is not a sharp one but reliable and without noticeable distortion. Here is a sample photo taken with it:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4649942469/" title="Crane by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Crane" height="327" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4053/4649942469_89ea5b8f2c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
All in all, the EXA Ia is a unique camera with a really special look. It’s simple, medium quality but reliable and fun to use. You will like to play with it.<br />
<br />
Raoul Pop, an American photographer made a short video to introduce the EXA Ia in details. A must see.<br />
<br />
<iframe frameborder="0" height="300" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/201819" width="400"></iframe><br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/201819">Exakta EXA Ia SLR</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/raoulpop">Raoul Pop</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
<br />
<ul><li><a href="http://raoulpop.com/2007/01/07/the-exakta-exa-ia-analog-camera/">Exa Ia introduction by Raoul Pop</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.camerapedia.org/wiki/Exa_1a">Exa Ia on Camerapedia</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.exakta.org/org35/orgexa/orgexa.html">Exa on Exakta.org</a></li>
<li><a href="http://ihagee.org/">Ihagee.org</a><span id="goog_461234238"></span><span id="goog_461234239"></span><a href="http://www.blogger.com/"></a></li>
</ul>Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10110818230262341583noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1695504003014491361.post-48159619347372965232010-12-12T20:54:00.002+01:002011-03-21T00:47:32.269+01:00Kodak Retina IIa<ul><li>Type 150</li>
<li>Serial No: 362056K</li>
<li>Manufactured: 1939-1941 (yes, right)</li>
<li>Manufacturer: Kodak</li>
<li>Shutter: Compur-Rapid</li>
<li>Shutter No: 6059689</li>
<li>Speeds: 1, 1/2, 1/5, 1/10, 1/25, 1/50, 1/100, 1/250, 1/500 and B</li>
<li>Lens: Schneider-Kreuznach - Retina-Xenon f:2.8 F=5cm (uncoated)</li>
<li>Aperture: between 2.8 and 16 without stops</li>
<li>Lens No: 1589863</li>
<li>Lens mount: fixed</li>
<li>Last CLA: unknown</li>
</ul>No, this is not the Retina IIa you think. That was made between 1951 and 1954. This one is a little bit older. It was designed in 1939 and manufactured until 1941 by the Nagel Camerawerk in Stuttgart, Germany under the Kodak brand name. Only 5107 pieces were produced from this type so you can call it a rarity.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4612503071/" title="Kodak Retina IIa Type 150 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Kodak Retina IIa Type 150" height="396" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4069/4612503071_ff3d36b089.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
The two visual differences you can use to identify it are that this one has film wind knob while the later types have a lever and this one has a depth-of-field scale wheel at the bottom which is missing from the 1951-54 series.<br />
<br />
The camera itself is small. It fits in a larger pocket when folded. It’s surprisingly heavy and robust for the small size, feels like something very serious and extremely reliable - and it is. It can provide you with a sufficient range of shutter speeds to 1/500 and an acceptable choice of apertures.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4612503063/" title="Kodak Retina IIa Type 150 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Kodak Retina IIa Type 150" height="378" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4029/4612503063_27e8fa235f.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
It’s a really old camera, not something from the 50’s so it’s a little bit difficult to use. You have to turn the camera to yourself to be able to set the aperture and shutter speed, for example. Accidentally modifying the settings is easy so be careful and check them before each shot. Your finger can unintentionally turn the shutter speed ring when you cock the shutter.<br />
<br />
The rangefinder is coupled and surprisingly usable; a pink spot picture on the blueish image of the viewfinder. In fact it’s far better than the rangefinder of a Super Dollina II or an early Zorki or Fed.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4612503081/" title="Kodak Retina IIa Type 150 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Kodak Retina IIa Type 150" height="384" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4050/4612503081_9e040a2776.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
You can find a depth-of-field scale wheel typically Nagel on the bottom of the camera. It can be used to pre-calculate the right distance setting when one decides to go with zone focusing instead of using the rangefinder. Zone focusing is like anything else with this camera: possible but not easy.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4612503093/" title="Kodak Retina IIa Type 150 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Kodak Retina IIa Type 150" height="391" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3380/4612503093_39110e1f5c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
The Kodak Retina IIa is a beautiful camera. No doubt about it. The Type 150 is even more. It’s usable but it’s so old that you have to make some compromises despite the good range of f stops and shutter speeds. (I’m willing to make compromises and hardly waiting to put a black & white film into it and go out somewhere.)<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4612503069/" title="Kodak Retina IIa Type 150 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Kodak Retina IIa Type 150" height="359" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4003/4612503069_18900a9889.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
There is no coating on the lenses so it’s better to be careful with the light sources. On top of that, the lens is meant to render black and white images. Using a color film it can produce really strange colors. The result is completely unpredictable, sometimes too red, sometimes too blue, sometimes too orange, sometimes dead grey and sometimes ok.<br />
<br />
Here are some test shots with more or less realistic colors (a bit yellowish, but just a bit):<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4612765725/" title="Clouds in blue by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Clouds in blue" height="353" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4014/4612765725_811914fe0d.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4604795030/" title="WYO by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="WYO" height="391" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3356/4604795030_d21070bc3c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4604795022/" title="Riverbank by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Riverbank" height="337" src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1297/4604795022_e015da84c6.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
Do you want some extra attention for yourself? Get a Retina IIa, put a roll of 35mm film into it and go to take some pictures. This camera is not an ordinary view, especially not in action.<br />
<br />
I couldn’t find any manual for this exact type so I had to experiment with it for a while to get to know each other and I found two quirks:<br />
<ol><li>There is an interlock which prohibits the camera to fold when the focus ring is not set to infinity. It looks like the folding unlock buttons to be jammed, but if you set the focus to infinity, everything works fine. So don’t force, set the focus to infinity before you close it.</li>
<li>There is a switch on the back of the camera behind the film wind knob without an obvious function. It enables the rollback of the film. It’s a unique solution of this type, other types have different mechanisms.</li>
</ol>You can read the manuals for the I, II and later IIa types on <a href="http://www.butkus.org/chinon/kodak.htm">butkus.org</a> for the rest you need to know on how to use this great camera.<br />
<ul><li><a href="http://www.wctatel.net/web/crye/retina.htm">Kodak Retina chronology</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.photoethnography.com/ClassicCameras/index-frameset.html?KodakRetina.html~mainFrame">Retina on Photoethnography</a></li>
</ul>Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10110818230262341583noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1695504003014491361.post-7285808240917755482010-11-20T20:53:00.003+01:002011-06-24T13:56:46.673+02:00Altix IV<ul><li>Type: version 2 type B</li>
<li>Serial No: 130546</li>
<li>Manufactured: 1952</li>
<li>Manufacturer: Eho-Altissa, later VEB-Altissa Kamera Werk, Dresden, Germany</li>
<li>Shutter: Vebur</li>
<li>Shutter speeds: 1, 1/2, 1/5, 1/10, 1/25, 1/50, 1/100, 1/250</li>
<li>Lens: Meyer-Optik - Trioplan 1:2.9/50</li>
<li>Apertures: between 2.9 and 16</li>
<li>Lens No:1681093</li>
<li>Lens mount: fixed</li>
<li>Last CLA: 06/2011</li>
</ul><br />
I had bought this camera to have something which I could take with me on my motorbike and I didn’t mind to wreck. It was cheap. It was ugly on the pictures. I didn’t care about the look just wanted something simple and functioning. It cost less than 15 EUR.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4612542997/" title="Altix IV by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Altix IV" height="356" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3374/4612542997_24f6546c93.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
As for the functionality, it provides with the bare minimum: small aperture and speed range, separate film winding and shutter cocking, no metering at all, you have to use a separate light meter for the exposition settings and a good guess-o-meter for the distances. Sounds not too handy, right?<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4612543031/" title="Altix IV by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Altix IV" height="375" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3303/4612543031_9c55f7b736.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
The first thing I noticed when I finally got it was how small it was. And how seriously good looking. Far better than on the pictures. It was a real surprise for me.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4612543019/" title="Altix IV by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Altix IV" height="357" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4061/4612543019_9cdfccc8c6.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
I took it to the International Seiberer Bergpreis oldtimer race to have an old camera with me. It was sunny so I didn’t have to use my light meter just set f/16 and 1/100. I used range focusing to forecast the distance. Winded the film, cocked the shutter and shot. Modified the distance and shot again. And again and again. I fell in love with it for the first roll.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4612543003/" title="Altix IV by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Altix IV" height="376" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3299/4612543003_8cc7600af3.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
The rings and knobs are ergonomically designed so the handling feels absolutely natural. The viewfinder is surprisingly bright and useful. The lack of metering gives you speed. You have to calculate and set everything in advance so you won’t miss the right moment of exposition. It turned to be the ideal camera for the oldtimer race. I could shoot 2 or more pictures of a car or a motorcycle taking the curve. Here are some pictures of the first two rolls:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4565999229/" title="Goggomobil by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Goggomobil" height="301" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4011/4565999229_aa8013a53e.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4587813872/" title="Racers by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Racers" height="363" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4067/4587813872_04bc0a21df.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4565999203/" title="Oldtimer race by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Oldtimer race" height="353" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3344/4565999203_a7ef17cd64.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/4587813896/" title="Oldtimer bus race by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Oldtimer bus race" height="333" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4045/4587813896_eab6064ba5.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
And now some words on the Trioplan lens. It has 3 elements. It was designed to be an affordable alternative of the more sophisticated 5 elements lenses. Well, its designer made a terrific job. It renders sharp and clear images. I simply love it.<br />
<br />
The small Altix quickly became one of my favorite cameras. It’s so ergonomic that it feels almost like a part of my body. It’s a great performer if you can prepare for the light conditions with the appropriate film speed. However, the absence of a rangefinder makes it very difficult to use if it comes to wider aperture settings.<br />
<br />
<ul><li><a href="http://www.altissa-museum.de/kameras/index.html">Altissa Museum</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.camerapedia.org/wiki/Altix">Altix on Camerapedia</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.erikfiss.com/foto/cams/altix/e.html">Useful Altix tips on Erik Fiss’ site</a></li>
</ul>Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10110818230262341583noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1695504003014491361.post-27442266117690605112010-11-07T20:51:00.003+01:002011-08-07T21:51:08.766+02:00Super Dollina II<ul><li>Serial No.: 51385</li>
<li>Manufacturer: Certo, Dresden, Germany</li>
<li>Shipping date: 19.6.1957.</li>
<li>Shutter: Synchro Compur</li>
<li>Shutter speeds: 1, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/15, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, 1/500 and B</li>
<li>Lens: Carl Zeiss Jena - Tessar 2.8/50</li>
<li>Apertures: 2.8 to 22 in half stops</li>
<li>Lens No.: 5026 936</li>
<li>Lens mount: fixed</li>
<li>Last CLA: 06/2010</li>
</ul><br />
<ul></ul><strong><img height="375" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4048/4532487608_d1f1fabdfe.jpg" width="500" /> </strong><br />
<strong><br />
</strong><br />
<em>"Dear CERTO-friend</em><br />
<em>Hearty welcome to the occasion of choosing the Super Dollina II, after thorough consideration, therefore becoming a part of the large group of photographers who like the Certo cameras for half a century – and have always been satisfied with them." </em>starts the manual (in my humble translation) and continues <em>"We would like you to enjoy your new camera so we kindly ask your attention for a few minutes before you go and take photographs with your Super Dollina II. This few minutes will contribute to the formulation of a long lasting friendship between you and your camera. With right handling, the Super Dollina II will always be your faithful friend."</em><br />
<em><br />
</em><br />
This small piece of beauty was manufactured in Dresden, DDR, after the WWII until the early 1970's. It has a Synchro-Compur shutter with speeds from 1 to 1/500 and B. The lens is a Zeiss Tessar 2.8/50mm rendering crystal clear pictures. It has all the technology built in to be a great camera. The main design aspect, however, had to be the look and not the ease of use; the handling needs strong dedication.<br />
<br />
The film winding knob, for example, doesn't cock the shutter: it has to be done separately. You have to set the aperture with that ugly peg in the bottom of the lens front which is not only difficult to handle but the scale is almost impossible to read. Focusing is a heroic fight with the coupled rangefinder which is a little dark hole as close to be unusable as possible. Finally, you have to use the viewfinder which is separate from the rangefinder and can be best described as a really bad joke. I haven't mentioned the speed setting which is simply not convenient and has to be re-checked after setting the aperture because aperture setting can easily modify it. All in all, the whole procedure of preparation takes a lot of time, concentration and patience before each shot.<br />
<br />
Which has its undeniable charm. Look at it this way: you have to slow down and think your shot over with an impressive old camera in your hand.<br />
<br />
Some notes on the positive side before you think I'm against the Super Dollina II. No, I'm not, in fact I love it. This is an eye catching machinery with a very unique, characteristic feeling. Unfolding and folding the lens, for example, is a piece of true joy, it moves so precisely. The folder design makes it compact and easy to carry. It can produce really sharp pictures - thanks to the Zeiss Tessar lens.<br />
<br />
<img height="375" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4027/4532487960_9e1469d579.jpg" width="500" /><br />
<br />
The Super Dollina II was an obsolete design in its age, using new technology. Therefore it can give you the feeling of an archaic camera without the rust, stuck parts, low quality and restrictions in aperture sizes and shutter speeds typical of the cameras of the 30's and the 40's. It's a true classic beauty which fits into your pocket and won't let you down even in darker light conditions. A must have for today's individual and ascetic vintage camera user.<br />
<br />
<img height="375" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4007/4532488130_5f34c31981.jpg" width="500" /><br />
<br />
Here are some test pictures taken with it just to prove that I'm ascetic enough. No, I'm joking, it was a real pleasure to take these photos.<br />
<br />
<img height="362" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4051/4541753910_444c5c402e.jpg" width="500" /><br />
<br />
<img height="416" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4014/4541753906_3c53babb0f.jpg" width="500" /><br />
<br />
<img height="373" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4019/4541753904_1afc498e33.jpg" width="500" /><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5989149052/" title="Trpanj port by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6139/5989149052_b3abfaca64.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="Trpanj port"></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5988589497/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6121/5988589497_f5c195b213.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt=""></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5991363775/" title="Traces of the war by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6004/5991363775_27c87a6780.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="Traces of the war"></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5991365415/" title="Untitled by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6130/5991365415_41b9a01283.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt=""></a><br />
<br />
This Tessar lens is sharp like hell as you see. And the colors are living.<br />
All in all, it's a lovely little camera.<br />
<ul><li><a href="http://www.camerapedia.org/wiki/Dollina_II" target="_blank">Dollina on Camerapedia</a></li>
<li><a href="https://docs.google.com/fileview?id=0B0ZdqQ4OdRW5ZTc4NzdlZWYtZTE4Mi00YTgyLWEyZTctZDNkM2MzNmE4NjQy&hl=en">Certo Super Dollina II Manual translation (PDF)</a></li>
</ul>Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10110818230262341583noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1695504003014491361.post-20426210821458409702010-10-07T20:48:00.013+02:002013-01-27T19:01:02.752+01:00Werra Matic<ul>
<li>Type: Werra Matic</li>
<li>Serial No: 387568</li>
<li>Manufactured: 01/1960 - 12/1961</li>
<li>Manufacturer: Carl Zeiss Jena</li>
<li>Shutter: Prestor RVS (metal leaf shutter)</li>
<li>Shutter speeds: 1, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/15, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250, 1/750 and B</li>
<li>Lens: Carl Zeiss Jena - Tessar 2.8/50</li>
<li>Aperture: 2.8 - 22 in half stops</li>
<li>Lens No: 6119161</li>
<li>Lens mount: special Werra bayonet with a lens fixing ring</li>
<li>Last CLA: 06/2010</li>
</ul>
<img height="375" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2701/4532342626_6e40798d3c.jpg" width="500" /><br />
<br />
My first vintage camera made in DDR by <a href="http://www.zeisshistorica.org/companies.html" target="_blank" title="Carl Zeiss companies">Carl Zeiss Jena</a>. It started something in me which led to lots of spendings on junk cameras and scratchy lenses.<br />
<br />
The Werra is a fine piece of engineering from the early '50s made by German engineers after coming home from Russian hard labour. (The same engineers who designed the famous Sonnar lens before WWII and later its russian copy called Jupiter. Read the other part of their story <a href="http://thecameracollection.blogspot.com/2010/11/kiev-iia.html">here</a>.) Being left out from years of lens research and development, the factory gave them a toy-project: design of a compact camera. In the lens factory. The engineers could easily feel that there was no need for them anymore. With the Werra, they wanted to prove that they were the best optical engineers far and close. And they were, indeed. They produced something unimaginably sophisticated. The applied technical solutions were far ahead from the others and the camera had a <em>really</em> unique and futuristic look. Just compare it with any other camera of that age: the Werra will stand out.<br />
<br />
<img height="375" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4021/4531751307_64a484310a.jpg" width="500" /><br />
<br />
A Werra Matic is one of the most undervalued vintage cameras. It's small but it contains every possible comfort from the coupled light meter (!) and the coupled rangefinder to the interchangeable lenses (it comes with a great Tessar) and flash sync at all speeds. It feels like a sophisticated and reliable precision clock. In fact, it is more sophisticated than anything else in the 50's, including the precision clocks.<br />
<br />
It's extremely stable. Shooting is like pressing a microswitch which triggers the clock mechanism. You can hear the fast ticking. Everything is easy to operate. Just one thing to get used to it: there is a ring and a switch button to set the speed, the aperture and to shift. It's a bit tricky for the first time but turns out to be practical when it comes to shooting in a given light condition.<br />
<br />
<img height="375" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4042/4532342712_9b3e8a1bc9.jpg" width="500" /><br />
<br />
There is no film wind lever or knob, as you probably realized. The film winding and shutter charging is done by turning the leather-covered ring at the lens base clockwise 60 degrees. It's easy, handy and fast, you don't have to take the camera away from your eye. I have to mention the lens cap which can be used as a protective lens cover and a lens shade and as well. Just watch:<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7482029920/" title="Werramatic by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Werramatic" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8017/7482029920_9ca4526839.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7482037194/" title="Werramatic by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Werramatic" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8152/7482037194_283a7714e4.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7482040080/" title="Werramatic by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Werramatic" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8153/7482040080_da476101f2.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
The viewfinder is an optical magic. You can see the shutter speed, the aperture, the result of the light metering and the focus setting in an easy-to-overview setup. And it's bright. It's damn bright. It's so bright actually that if it's too dark outside to see the aperture and speed settings on the rings then you don't have to look for your torch - just look into the viewfinder. How on earth can it be brighter than the outside environment, I don't know. But the thing I know is that it was a big help for me taking night pictures.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzCqlI0PFNHxNeM5cXJVFGUWpf6VIX7N9KDQ1fm7AL6B6RTlEJabcMdgyGxJl4DGTLFFmzM2kxSS5OBziQzSKByiDZ3gxLbabGmSaxms9mMn4YgdgDm-3Uq14hy0MAKtwRUb3Dinav3bI/s1600/werraviewfinder.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzCqlI0PFNHxNeM5cXJVFGUWpf6VIX7N9KDQ1fm7AL6B6RTlEJabcMdgyGxJl4DGTLFFmzM2kxSS5OBziQzSKByiDZ3gxLbabGmSaxms9mMn4YgdgDm-3Uq14hy0MAKtwRUb3Dinav3bI/s320/werraviewfinder.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
And the rangefinder, oh my God! The rangefinder is not an ugly pink spot on a blueish image, no. It's a prism inserted in the center of the view, clearly visible even in really low light. Its usability is simply not in the same dimension as the other rangefinders of the 50's.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7482072710/" title="Werramatic by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Werramatic" height="333" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7274/7482072710_d1de2ec664.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7482136720/" title="Werramatic by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Werramatic" height="333" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7259/7482136720_e0d54dd62a.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7482046176/" title="Werramatic by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Werramatic" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8150/7482046176_51f2dcab7d.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
There is a Werra for everyone - said the ad. The Carl Zeiss Jena factory made it sure with lots of Werra types and accessories.<br />
<br />
<h3>
Models:</h3>
<div>
<br /></div>
<ul>
<li>Werra - the original simple viewfinder model with fixed lens</li>
<li>Werra 1 - simple viewfinder model, fixed lens</li>
<li>Werra 2 - viewfinder, uncoupled light meter, fixed lens</li>
<li>Werra 3 - coupled rangefinder, interchangeable lens</li>
<li>Werra 4 - uncoupled light meter, coupled rangefinder, interchangeable lens</li>
<li>Werra 5 / Werramatic / Werra Matic - coupled light meter, coupled rangefinder, interchangeable lens</li>
<li>Werra E Microscope - no viewfinder, no lightmeter, just a body with a Prontor Press shutter and a microscope adapter</li>
</ul>
<br />
<ul>
</ul>
<h3>
Lens selection:</h3>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7473061682/" title="Werra with lenses by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Werra with lenses" height="333" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7261/7473061682_82c992ccc2.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
Some fixed lens types came with a built in Novonar but Tessar was the default lens. The interchangeable lens types always came with a Tessar 2.8/50 basic lens. There was a wide angle Flektogon 2.8/35 and a short tele Cardinar 4/100 available. Both lenses could do the trick with the coupled light meter just as good as the little Tessar did: you just put the Cardinar or the Flektogon on the camera, twist the aperture ring back and forth and the magical light meter reads the actual aperture setting mechanically.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7473062796/" title="Flektogon & Cardinar for Werra by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Flektogon & Cardinar for Werra" height="333" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7130/7473062796_e27948ff25.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7473064072/" title="Flektogon & Cardinar for Werra by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Flektogon & Cardinar for Werra" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8142/7473064072_7aa33b8045.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7473058242/" title="Werra with Flektogon by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Werra with Flektogon" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8151/7473058242_ce027fd59c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7473057082/" title="Werra with Cardinar by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Werra with Cardinar" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8153/7473057082_c8d14c752c.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
<h3>
Accessories:</h3>
<div>
<br /></div>
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7448808302/" title="Doppelwerra and the macro set by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Doppelwerra and the macro set" height="333" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7130/7448808302_0a45386050.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
There is a quite strange looking Macro Set for the Werras which has prefix lens for the rangefinder as well so focusing could be done as usual. The set consists of two prefixes: the Werra Naheinstellgerat 1 for 0.8 - 0.4 meter range...<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7469421160/" title="Werra with Macro prefix 1 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Werra with Macro prefix 1" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8142/7469421160_092358f747.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7469418684/" title="Werra with Macro prefix 1 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Werra with Macro prefix 1" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8014/7469418684_1ca3357544.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
... and the "supermacro" Werra Naheinstellgerat 2 for 0.4 - 0.3 meter.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7469417908/" title="Werra with Macro prefix 2 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Werra with Macro prefix 2" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8151/7469417908_a794c21d80.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7469416268/" title="Werra with Macro prefix 2 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Werra with Macro prefix 2" height="333" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7128/7469416268_7b64bd9fde.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7469411612/" title="Werra with Macro prefix 2 by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Werra with Macro prefix 2" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8151/7469411612_0a0defd16a.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
But there is an even stranger accessory, the Doppelwerra.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7448800480/" title="Doppelwerra by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Doppelwerra" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8026/7448800480_e16aa1ac51.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
It's a metallic mount piece with two screws to fasten two Werras together.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7448806798/" title="Doppelwerra by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Doppelwerra" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8143/7448806798_ebdcfaa177.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
But contrary the common belief it has nothing to do with stereo photography or any kind of 3D. (The lenses are not in the same level so it would be impossible anyway.) The use of the Doppelwerra is to allow us to take the same photo on two different films (usually a colour and a bw).<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7448805942/" title="Doppelwerra by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Doppelwerra" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8155/7448805942_26fedb8b66.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/7448804596/" title="Doppelwerra by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Doppelwerra" height="333" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8005/7448804596_f5a9c38ea5.jpg" width="500" /></a>
<br />
<br />
Here are some night shots I took with my Werra Matic having the Tessar on it:<br />
<br />
<img height="500" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3391/4601870767_101aabc5ce.jpg" width="358" /><br />
<br />
<img height="326" src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1300/4601870765_29902a0886.jpg" width="500" /><br />
<br />
<img height="500" src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1116/4601870761_5a381dee7f.jpg" width="338" /><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5086509367/" title="Self reflection by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Self reflection" height="346" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4112/5086509367_83e8eb7092.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5087105780/" title="Night shot by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Night shot" height="349" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4130/5087105780_8f72effd03.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
The light conditions were not easy as you see but the multi-coated lens could handle them quite well. The Tessar produces good result on color film as well.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5577556994/" title="Pillar by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Pillar" height="333" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5108/5577556994_9a40d91c57.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
Now some shots with the Flektogon.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5577558442/" title="First hike after Winter by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="First hike after Winter" height="333" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5109/5577558442_8612f97f76.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5462146470/" title="Walk from Kisújbánya by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Walk from Kisújbánya" height="333" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5252/5462146470_bc2ac486bc.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thewrongdevice/5352870480/" title="Clock tower, Eger by Laszlo_Gerencser, on Flickr"><img alt="Clock tower, Eger" height="500" src="http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5246/5352870480_8f83f5ce10.jpg" width="380" /></a>
<br />
<br />
The Werra Matic is one of the tops of the 35mm camera making. It is reliable, easy to use, offers 1/750 speed by a precision clock-like metal leaf shutter, has interchangeable lenses, makes sharp pictures, can handle every possible light condition, is more usable than anything of that age, and it's small. To be like this, it has to be extremely complex - and it is indeed. The amount of effort the design of such a complex thing needed would have been impossible to put into a mid-priced camera in the profit-oriented West. The Werra Matic is the proud child of the socialist DDR where profit wasn't an issue.<br />
<br />
Werra is my everyday vintage camera. If I need something reliable: I take the Werra. If I have to deal with tricky light conditions: I take the Werra. If I would like to be sure not to miss a shot while wrestling with the knobs and rings and pegs: I take the Werra. If it comes to night shots or interior: guess what, I take the Werra. And it amazes me every time.<br />
<br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.camerapedia.org/wiki/Werra" target="_blank">Camerapedia: Werra</a></li>
<li><a href="http://cameras.alfredklomp.com/werramatic/" target="_blank">Werramatic </a></li>
<li><a href="http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=fr&sl=fr&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fpagesperso-orange.fr%2Fkrg%2Fwerra%2Fwerra.htm" target="_blank">Les Werra</a></li>
<li><a href="http://www.mediajoy.com/en/cla_came/werra/index.html" target="_blank">Werra Howto</a></li>
<li>Manuals <a href="http://www.butkus.org/chinon/werra_1-4/werra_1-4.htm" target="_blank">here</a> and <a href="http://www.butkus.org/chinon/werra_i-v/werra_i-v.htm" target="_blank">here</a></li>
</ul>
Lhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/10110818230262341583noreply@blogger.com5